Wire Wreath Earrings - Festive Jewellery Making Tutorial | beadsdirect.co.uk
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Wire Wreath Earrings - Festive Jewellery Making Tutorial

Products used in project:

Wire Wreath Earrings - Festive Jewellery Making Tutorial

Information about project:

Wire Wreath Earrings - Festive Jewellery Making Tutorial

Designed by: Julie Dudley

Difficulty: Beginner

Rating:

Who doesn't like a Christmas themed project? Julie takes us through her step by step process to make a beautiful pair of seasonal earrings using wire and beads. Ready? Let's get Creative!

You can add all the items you need to your basket by clicking the box in the 'Products used' section above, or you can let your imagination run wild and choose your own materials from the links below. Please note that the colours for the products illustrated in the image above may not match the 'Products List'.

Tools:

We believe that jewellery should be as individual as you are and so our tutorials are for inspiration and learning purposes. They include links to the relevant categories for you to choose your own colour combinations and we positively encourage you to experiment with different shapes, sizes, finishes, composition and texture. Why not choose your own colours to achieve something in your own style? Let your creative imagination run wild and make your dream piece of jewellery.

Designed by Julie Dudley - October 2021

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Before you begin:  

You will need either a ring mandrel or something to wrap around to create a perfect round coil. The size doesn't necessarily matter but whatever you choose will be the size of the finished earrings. I have used a nail varnish bottle with approximately a 1 inch diameter for the tutorial to show that these can be made with basic tools.


Gently warm several inches of your 0.9 mm Vivid Green copper wire by running it between your thumb and forefinger.
Take your mandrel or whatever object you are using to create your coil and wrap the wire around twice.
Line your tape measure up with the start of the wire making sure that the wire you wrapped is tight. The wires need to overlap by 4 cm so you have enough wire each end to create a loop . Accurate measurements are the most important part when trying to make matching earrings.
Follow the tape measure around to the 4 cm mark and cut the wire. The wire will spring apart slightly when you take it off. This is not a problem.
Repeat to make the second coil making sure you wrap and hold it tight when you cut then it should be the same as the first.


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You now have two coils. At this stage you can hold the coils next to each other and check that they are exactly the same. Any slight difference can be trimmed now.

Take one of the coils and hold the wire gently between thumbs and forefingers so that one wire end sits at the top and the other sits inside the circle. It may need very gentle coaxing, but do not pull the wires apart or you will change the measurements and your earrings won't be a perfect pair.

Repeat with the second coil.

When you now put them down you want one of the end wires on one coil facing to the right and the other facing to the left. You will keep them facing opposite directions for the whole tutorial

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Take your round nose pliers and one of the coils. Hold the top wire just inside your round nose pliers not far down as you want a small loop and so it is flush with nothing sticking out (this helps to create a perfect loop rather than a P-shape).

Then turn your pliers to create the loop.

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Take the second coil.

As previously mentioned, the coil needs to be a mirror image of the first. So if the loop on the first coil faced to the right the second needs to face to the left as in the photo.

Make sure that you hold the wire flush in your round nose pliers again and also in the same part of the pliers, so that the loop is the same size as the first. (If you struggle with this you can always put the first loop back on the pliers and make a mark with a pen on your pliers, so the next will be exactly the same).

Create your loop so you have a pair.

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Take one of the coils.

Now you need to hold the inner wire in your round nose pliers so that it is flush with no wire sticking out. Create your coil as before, Although this time you need to make sure that the inner loop sits directly under the outer loop.

Create your loop, but if it is not sat in the right place move your pliers back, then change the position in your pliers to make a smaller or larger loop as required until it is sat perfectly.

Repeat with the second coil. Although you preferably want to use your pliers as little as possible with bright coloured wire, to minimize marks and chips of the colour.

Check the frames against each other to make sure that they look alike and make any slight adjustments.

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Pick up your green coil where the top loop curls to your right hand side, as in the photos.

Take your 0.5 mm Bright Violet coloured wire.

The amount of wire required depends on the size of your coiled frame. Mine is 1 inch/2.6cm diameter, and needs approximately 1 metre 20cm of the violet wire, so adjust accordingly.

It is not possible to work from the reel in this design, and you don't really want to add extra in (although it is possible). So cut more wire than you think you will need as any left overs can be used in other projects.

Hold the coil with the top loop facing right and hold your length of wire underneath the frame, just Infront of the top loop, with approximately 8cm extra above the top of the frame. Gently pull the wire up through the centre of the frame so the wire end comes through last and bring it over the top and back up through the middle in the same way. Make sure that the two green wires are sat next to each other. Although it needs to sit neat to the frame, you don't want it so tight that you can't weave the wire through the middle in the next stage.

The least kinks and bends you can accidentally make in the wire, the better. Which is why we are gently coaxing it through the middle rather than just pulling the end of the wire. If you do get any kinks or bends, gently move it back the way it was.... and don't just pull it. This will help to stop breakages or paint chips, although no matter how hard you try slight paint chips are inevitable, but very difficult to notice in this design with the beads added.

Wrap the wire over the top again and through the middle so you have the violet wire wrapped around twice. You can gently push the two wires together with your fingers if they are not sat neatly together.


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Now we need to wrap the wire around just the inner wire. It may seem strange to begin with, but the easiest way which causes the least stress on the wire is to pass the wire around the back of the top outer loop and bring it in between the wires all the way around the circle of the frame until it sits next to the previous wrap.

So hold the violet wire, and pass it behind the outer loop in-between the coil. Gently pull it all the way around to the two wires already woven and gently push together with your finger until it sits neatly. Then bring the wire gently back up through the middle with the end coming through last.

Repeat this going behind the loop, around the coil, neatening and pulling the wire through the middle, until you have five wraps sitting neatly and the wire up through the middle.

Always try to keep a firm hold of the framework with your non dominant hand, so it keeps it's shape whilst pulling the weaving wire.

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Pour out some of your Christmas mix seed beads and add five seed beads onto the red wire. I'm trying to add more green to other colour ratio, so it's like the green on a wreath, although you have to make sure you have at least half of the colour left for the second earring and spread the colour evenly over the frame.

As in step seven, wrap the wire around both of the green wires but make sure you hold a couple of the seed beads to sit at the front of the frame, then bring the wire through the middle as before. Repeat a second time making sure that the remaining seed beads are sitting nicely, and neaten the weave using your fingers to push it together.

Also all the way through making this design you need to make sure that the two loops on the green coiled frame are still sitting one directly above the other. If not gently holding the two end of the frame near the top, push them together until the loops meet up again. Do this every so often if it has moved.

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As in step seven, wrap five times around the inner green wire by passing behind the loop, bringing it around and then up through the middle.


Keep repeating steps eight and nine... adding five seed beads and wrapping around both green wires twice, then five times around the inner wire without beads until you get to the end.

Always neaten your wires in-between each stage and check that the two green loops are still sitting together at the top.

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No matter what point you are at when you come to the end, you will finish by wrapping just the one wire that sits between both loops. Also at this point undo the very first two loops you made at the beginning add five seed beads and wrap back again. I find this far easier than starting the very first wraps with beads on. Finish the frame by wrapping until the wires meet, I have also wrapped once through each loop to the central wire. Trim off the left over wire with your wire cutters and gently squeeze the ends of the wire down with your flat nose pliers.

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You are now going to do exactly the same with the second coiled frame. Make sure you are holding the frame so that the top loop is facing in the opposite direction to the last. Hold your violet wire underneath the frame but after the two loops, not before them as you did last time, because you are creating a mirror image of your last piece and traveling in the opposite direction. Make sure you have the 8 cm or so sticking above the wire and wrap the violet wire around the frame twice and pull through the middle as before.

Then exactly the same as before but to the left, pass the violet wire behind the top loop bring it all the way around to meet your last weave and bring through the middle.

Keep following the previous steps.

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Cut two 12cm lengths of your 0.8mm gold coloured copper wire and warm them between your thumb and forefinger a few times.

Hold both pieces together in your round nose pliers approximately centrally and create loops by pushing each of the wires around underneath your pliers.

Take one of the pieces and hold in your flat nose pliers. Push each of the wires around 90 degrees so they twist together so that the loop is facing north to south and the wires east to west.

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Butt your pliers up to the loop, as we are now going to make a larger loop. Depending on the size of the nose on your round nose pliers is dependant on where you want to hoid it. You don't want really tiny loops, but by the same rule, you don't want huge ones or the bow won't sit inside your beaded frame. My pliers probably create a loop just under 1 mm diameter at their widest point so somewhere around this size works well.

Bring the wire on the side you are holding up over your pliers until it faces straight down under the loop.

Butt your round nose pliers up to the loop on the opposite side in about the same place as before, and bring that wire up over the nose of your pliers until facing straight down.

Holding one of the large loops in your flat nose pliers, bring the end of the wire on that side, up around the back and down between the opposite larger loop and the central loop.

Hold the opposite loop in your pliers and bring the end on that side up around the back and between the big loop on the opposite side and the central loop.

Repeat steps above with second wire.

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Place the bows together and trim the wire ends to similar lengths.

Take your round nose pliers and create a small loop in the end of each wire. Hold them up to the centre of your beaded frame to check that they will fit freely in the middle.

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Take your beaded sections and open each of the inner loops with your flat nose pliers towards you like a gate. Add a gold bow to each loop so that they are facing forward, and close the loops.

You can now make any adjustments needed by curling the wire further on the bows. Or holding up the frames to see if the bows hang straight as you can always wiggle the loops backwards or forwards with your fingers and the tail end of the bows until you are happy.

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Warm a section of wire on the coil between your thumb and forefinger as before, and cut two 7 cm lengths.

With your round nose pliers make a small loop the same size on the end of both wires.

Either using a pair of pliers that create just over a 1cm circle, with a mandrel or pen, hold both pieces of wire against what you are using with 6-7mm overhanging with the loop at the bottom and take the other ends of the wires over the top and down slightly past the straight down position. I do them together to create an exact pair.

Hold them together and trim the wire at the bottom if necessary.

Hold both ends together a couple of millimeters up in your flat nose pliers and create a slight kink.

Use a needle file or nail file on the very ends to remove anything sharp.

Open the top loops of your wreaths as you did with the inner ones and attach a shepherds hook to each wreath making sure they are facing fowards.

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You now have your beautifully matching wreath earrings.

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Also why not try doing the tutorial without adding beads, it works exactly the same way just make sure you push each wire together neatly with your fingers. You can mix up which way around you use the gold and green wires for a different look.


Another option would be to make an extra wreath and add a jump ring to the top loop and attach onto a chain, so you have a matching set.


You can also attach ready made ear wires instead of making your own.

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