Pyramids - TOHO beaded earrings tutorial | beadsdirect.co.uk
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Pyramids - TOHO beaded earrings tutorial

Information about project:

Pyramids - TOHO beaded earrings tutorial

Difficulty: Intermediate

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In today's project we will create beaded 3D Pyramids. We will use two basic bead stitches to make them. The base of the pyramids will be made with herringbone stitch and the sides with peyote stitch. Single pyramids are commonly used as the main element of earrings and pendants. They can also be made into larger compositions, making detailed, elaborate necklaces and bracelets. 

Materials needed; 

  • Toho Round beads - in two sizes, 11/0 (90 pieces) and 15/0 (approx. 500 pieces). We will weave the backs of the pyramids from 11/0's, and the sides from 15/0's. I decided on earrings in shades of grey, hence the photo above shows four types of beads: Toho Round 11/0 in a nickel colour, Toho Round 15/0 in a nickel colour, Permanent Finish - Matte Galvanized Aluminum, and Silver-Lined Grey . The use of several shades will allow us to shade the sides of the pyramids, thanks to which we will obtain an intriguing effect of depth. Nevertheless, the pyramids made of beads in one or two colours also look interesting.
  • Earwires or studs - My pyramids will hang on earwires, but simple hooks will also work great here. Pyramids also look brilliant on studs. 
  • Thread or fishing line - thin cotton thread or fishing line can be used. The photo shows the One-G waxed thread produced by Toho in black.
  • Bead needle - needles size 10-12 will be suitable. Remember that they have to pass through the bead's hole several times.
  • Scissors for trimming threads and a bead mat for beads or a sheet of felt will also be useful.

Please note that the colours for the products illustrated in the image above may not match the 'Products List'. 

Step 1

Where do we start?

We will weave the pyramid around. The top of the pyramid will be the central part and we will make the next beads around it.

Row I.

We thread 3 Toho 11/0 beads on a thread, approx. 60 cm long . For me, these are nickel-coloured beads.

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We pull the needle through all the beads once more so that they form a circle that will be the central part - the top of our pyramid.

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We pass the needle through all the beads several times so that they stop shifting on the thread. We leave the end with a ltail of max. 5cm. Later, we will hide this excess thread inside the beads.

You can already see that the beads form a kind of triangle. In the next steps, we will expand its sides.

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Row II

We thread 2 x Toho 11/0 and insert the needle into the adjacent bead.

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We arrange the beads parallel to the side of the triangle.

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We thread 2 x Toho 11/0 again and insert the needle into the adjacent bead to expand the other side of the triangle.

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We add 2 x Toho 11/0 on the third side in the same way.

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We thread the needle through the first bead in row II to start row III.

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Row III

We thread 2 x Toho 11/0 .

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We thread the needle through the second 11/0 Toho bead of row II.

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We thread 1 x Toho 15/0 (here I used a Matte Galvanized Aluminum colour) and thread the needle through the third Toho 11/0 bead in row II.

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Take 2 x Toho 11/0 again and pass the needle through the fourth bead in row II.

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We thread 1 x Toho 15/0 Matte Galvanized Aluminum, then thread the needle through another Toho 11/0 bead.

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We are adding a third pair of Toho 11/0 .

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Step 15

We thread 1 x Toho 15/0 Matte Galvanized Aluminum. This time we pass the needle through the first 11/0 Toho beads in rows II and III. From now on, we will always pass two 11/0 beads at the end of the round - from the previous and current row.

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Row IV

We take 2 x Toho 11/0 , thread the needle through the second 11/0 bead in row III.

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We fill the side of the pyramid with a peyote stitch, i.e. thread 1 x Toho 15/0 Matte Galvanized Aluminum, pass through Toho 15/0 from the previous row, again take 1 x Toho 15/0 Matte Galvanized Aluminum and pass the needle through the third Toho 11/0 bead from the previous row.

We add 2 x Toho 11/0 .

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We fill the other two sides of the pyramid in the same way. Make sure to pass the needle through the two 11/0 Toho beads at the end of the round.

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Row V

As before, we start by selecting 2 x Toho 11/0.

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Fill the side of the pyramid with a peyote stitch - weave 1 x Toho 15/0 Matte Galvanized Aluminum, 1 x Toho 15/0 Silver-Lined Grey, 1 x Toho 15/0 Matte Galvanized Aluminum between the beads from the previous row. We take out the needle after the third Toho bead 11/0 from the previous row.

We choose 2 x Toho 11/0 and fill the other two sides in the same way as the first.

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This is what my pyramid looks like at the end of the V row. Now you can see that thanks to the use of two sizes of beads, we get a three-dimensional effect - the pyramid starts to be convex. To achieve this effect, you must remember to tighten the thread. 

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Row VI

We choose 2 x Toho 11/0 to expand the back of the pyramid.

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We fill the side with peyote stitch according to Diagram 1 x Toho 15/0 Matte Galvanized Aluminum, 1 x Toho 15/0 Silver-Lined Grey, 1 x Toho 15/0 Silver-Lined Grey, 1 x Toho 15/0 Matte Galvanized Aluminum.

We take out the needle after the third Toho bead 11/0 from the previous row. We select 2 x Toho 11/0 and fill the other sides in the same way.

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Below is a photo of the pyramid after completing row VI:

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Row VII

We start the lap again by choosing 2 x Toho 11/0.

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Fill the spaces between the Toho 15/0 beads from the previous row: 1 x Toho 15/0 Matte Galvanized Aluminum, 1 x Toho 15/0 Silver-Lined Grey, 1 x Toho 15/0 Nickel, 1 x Toho 15/0 Silver- Lined Grey, 1 x Toho 15/0 Matte Galvanized Aluminum.

Then we choose 2 x Toho 11/0 and fill the other sides according to the same pattern.

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Row VIII

This is the penultimate lap. We start by selecting 2 x Toho 11/0 .

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We fill the side with peyote stitch: 1 x Toho 15/0 Matte Galvanized Aluminum, 4 x Toho 15/0 Silver-Lined Grey, 1 x Toho 15/0 Matte Galvanized Aluminum.

Again we select 2 x Toho 11/0 and fill in the same way the other walls of the pyramid.

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Row IX

This is the last lap. This time we do not select Toho 11/0 beads on the back, but just thread the needle through the other Toho 11/0 bead to get to the side of the pyramid.

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Fill the side with peyote stitch: 1 x Toho 15/0 Matte Galvanized Aluminum, 5 x Toho 15/0 Silver-Lined Grey, 1 x Toho 15/0 Matte Galvanized Aluminum. We thread the needle through Toho 11/0 beads and in the same way fill the other two walls of the pyramid.

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Step 31

The front part of the pyramid is ready. We pass the end of the thread through the adjacent beads one by one to hide it inside - cut off the excess thread.

How to finish the pyramid

We will need a flat beaded triangle to close the pyramid. To do it, go through rows I-VIII again (skipping the last row!). This time, however, use only one size of beads, ie Toho 15/0.

This is how both parts of my pyramid look:

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The edges of the front and back parts fit together like the teeth of a zipper, so we sew them together in this way. We thread the needle alternately through the protruding beads on the front and back.

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When we are at the corner of the pyramid, we change the sewing direction to create a loop between the 15/0 bead on the back part and the 11/0 bead on the front part.

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Between the 11/0 beads we can insert an additional 15/0 bead (here in Silver-Lined Grey).

And we go back to sewing the next side.

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How to attach earwires

On one of the corners of the pyramid, between the Toho 11/0 beads, instead of one Toho 15/0 bead, add three beads. They will create a loop that you can easily attach the earwires to.

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Here is the earring ready!

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And here even two!

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As I mentioned earlier, the pyramids also look beautiful on studs. Here in bronze:

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The studs can be attached from the inside. After sewing the first edge of the pyramid, squeeze the stud between the beads (put a little jewellery glue on it). The inside of the pyramid must then be pushed out, otherwise the stick will collapse inward. To fill the inside of the pyramid, you can use, for example, paper towels and cosmetic pads - it is important that they are firmly compacted.

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And that's it! I hope you enjoyed this tutorial, please share your colour version on our Facebook group! We would love to see your work :)