How to make a ring from beads - Even peyote stitch | Projects | beadsdirect.co.uk
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How to make a ring from beads - Even peyote stitch

Products used in project:

How to make a ring from beads - Even peyote stitch

Items (4)
Qty
Price
TOHO™ / Round 15/0 / Transparent Frosted / Dark Topaz / 10g
U2101
1
Out of stock
TOHO™ / Round 8/0 / Permafinish / Matte Galvanized / Old Gold / 10g / ~ 300pcs
U9667
1
Out of stock
Total Cost
£4.49

Not all products are available for this project

Information about project:

How to make a ring from beads - Even peyote stitch

Designed by: Magda

Difficulty: Beginner

Rating:

Magda is going to show you today how to make a ring using seed beads. It is very effective yet easy to make. We will use the peyote even stitch to make the ring. The effect you can get by using Toho Round seed beads from size 15 to 6 (or even 3!) looks really cool, so feel free to give it a go. To work! 

Materials needed to make the ring;

TOHO beads - in sizes 15/0, 11/0, 8/0, 6/0. For a unique effect, it is important to use beads of different sizes.

Jewellery needle - Size 12 

Jewellery thread - Strong thread, e.g. One-G. In a colour similar to beads, or neutral.

Optional

FirePolish beads - instead of TOHO 6/0 you can use FP beads in 4mm, they look just as interesting (green ring below). I also used SuperDuo beads to make the green ring.

Step 1

Let's get started! The ring will be straight-forward for you, especially if you are familiar with peyote stitch. I start by cutting a piece of thread, add my needle and then secure the end with a stopper bead. 

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Step 2

Thread 10 TOHO beads in size 15 on the needle.

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Step 3

Move them to the end of the thread, to the stopper bead.

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Step 4

Take 1 TOHO 15 bead on the needle, and pass through the penultimate bead from those that we have just strung - the 9th bead.

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Step 5

Here is how your work should look so far. 

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Step 6

Repeat the process with another 4 beads - Size 15's.

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Step 7

Here is the result.

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Step 8

Once again I will add 5 x 15's. I then skip a bead and go through the protruding bead 15 from the previous row.

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Step 9

I repeat this step with another 4 TOHO 15 beads.

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Step 10

And again.

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Step 11

We already have the first few rows of the ring.

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Step 12

To make the edges strong, I stitch them again on both sides. I repeat this action at the end of each subsequent row. I insert the needle from below into two beads at the edge.

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Step 13

And then - from above, exit out of the bottom of the beads as in the picture, I can sew peyote on.

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Step 14

The One-G thread is strong in itself, but a double one for the ring will ensure it is secure.

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Step 15

Sew six rows of TOHO 15 with your colour choice, my beads are Mauve Mocca Matte. Now add 3 more rows of size 15 Galvanized Bronze.

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Step 16

 Add one more row of TOHO 15 with Mauve Mocca Matte.

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Step 17

And now it's time to start the fan - we are gradually increasing the size of the beads, but the method remains unchanged: I switch to TOHO 11 and sew the next 3 rows.

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Step 18

Now it's time for TOHO 8. So: next 3 rows of beads of this size.

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Step 19

A fan is automatically created.

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Step 20

Time for the biggest beads from my set: TOHO 6. Next 3 rows. (Note: You can replace them with, for example, FirePolish - e.g. in size 3 or 4mm - as in my second, green ring - below).

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Step 21

And now we will "roll up" the fan, that is, I reverse the order of selection of beads: I will add 3 rows of TOHO 8, then TOHO 11 and 15.

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Step 22

It is important to sew the same number of rows of beads with each colour to ensure a mirror image. Here is my effect.

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Step 23

For now the ring would be too narrow. I want to make a ring in size 16. So I decided to continue my peyote stitch with galvanized bronze, 15 threads. 

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Step 24

 I measure the ring while working. 

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Step 25

I will sew the edges now. It is important to check before sewing that the edges overlap.

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Step 26

I will go into the first bead with the needle from the edge of the other end of my needlework.

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Step 27

Then, pass the thread through the protruding bronze bead.

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Step 28

And so, alternately, I thread through all the protruding beads.

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Step 29

This is how it looks after leaving the last bead.

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Step 30

 I tighten both threads.

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Step 31

I tie both ends of the thread.

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Step 32

I thread the rest of both ends of the thread. 

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Step 33

I cut off the long threads. Always cut off the rest of the thread near the bead, with sharp scissors so that it does not stick out.

The ring is ready! It wasn't too difficult, was it?

Be sure to let me know if you enjoyed the tutorial, I would love to see yours on our Facebook Group.

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