How to make a double bracelet on a Kumihimo disk - step by step jewellery making tutorial

Let's begin. Firstly, cut 14 pieces of thread, about 50 cm long each. We divide them into two parts and make a knot.

We take the disc. 

7 strings are attached to the disk in positions:

32/1

4/5

8/9

16/17

20/21

24/25

28/29

Leave the gap in position 12/13.

Once we have the threads on, it's time to thread the beads.

We thread according to the scheme:
o - TOHO beads
0 - SuperDuo beads
32/1 : ooooo 0 ooooooo 0 ooooooo 0 ooooooo 0 ooooooo 0 ooooooo 0 ooooooo
4/5 : ooo 0 ooooooo 0 ooooooo 0 ooooooo 0 ooooooo 0 ooooooo 0 ooooooo 0 ooooooo 0 ooooooo
8/9 : oooooooo 0 ooooooo 0 ooooooo 0 ooooooo 0 ooooooo 0 ooooooo 0 ooooooo
16/17 : oo 0 ooooooo 0 ooooooo 0 ooooooo 0 ooooooo 0 ooooooo 0 ooooooo 0 ooooooo 0 ooooooo
20/21 : oooooo 0 ooooooo 0 ooooooo 0 ooooooo 0 ooooooo 0 ooooooo 0 ooooooo
24/25 : 0oooo 0 ooooooo 0 ooooooo 0 ooooooo 0 ooooooo 0 ooooooo 0 ooooooo 0 ooooooo
28/29 : o 0 ooooooo 0 ooooooo 0 ooooooo 0 ooooooo 0 ooooooo 0 ooooooo 0 ooooooo 0 ooooooo

It's all about the beginning. Making sure after each SuperDuo we have 7 TOHO beads.

When the sequence is already threaded and the strings are correctly placed on the disk, we can start changing the strings. At the beginning, for practice, we will do two laps with only strings. We start with the string from position 32/1 and put it into position 12/13. Then we turn the disk clockwise and grab the string from position 20/21. 

We translate this into 32/1. We rotate the disk again and start from position 8/9. This string is moved to position 20/21. 

28/29 → 8/9

16/17 → 28/29

4/5 → 16/17

24/25 → 4/5

12/13 → 24/25

The whole sequence of changing the strings looks like this: 

32/1 → 12/13
20/21 → 32/1
8/9 → 20/21
28/29 → 8/9
16/17 → 28/29
4/5 → 16/17
24 / 25 → 4/5
12/13 → 24/25
32/1 → 12/13
And so we repeat the sequence for a total of 16 swipes of the same thread until we return to the position where we start with 32/1.

Here we add the first bead. We slide it off the string and put it under the adjacent thread.

Then take 20/21 and translate the string (sliding the bead) to position 32/1, which is the same as we did when we moved the strings only.

This way we put on 8 beads until we reach 32/1 and here the first SD bead should appear.

We make the next movements with the same TOHO until we come full circle again and we reach 32/1 where the SuperDuo bead should be again.

If you have threaded the beads correctly and followed the instructions at the beginning of the tutorial, you can remember that the SuperDuo bead always appears in position 32/1 translated to 12/13.

We follow this pattern to the end of our bracelet. The length of the bracelet is your choice, but remember that when working with a magnetic clasp, we must take into account that it cannot be adjusted. So we have to make the bracelet bigger, so that the clasp does not come off under pressure, and the bracelet does not fall off our hand.

With a tube fastening (it is quite long), for a wrist with a circumference of about 15 cm, a length of about 36 Superduo beads is enough.
We already have the last Superduo bead, now we make one more round with the same TOHO beads as before.

When we reach position 32/1 and the Superduo bead falls out again, we leave the string instead of the bead. We repeat this way (only the strings) for another 15 laps so that we get a string tail (just like at the beginning of our work).

When we get to the end, we do not remove our work, but apply hasulith glue to the resulting tail and the tip of the strings. We wait for it to dry and only then remove the bracelet from the disk. Cut off the excess and put the first half aside.

We make the second part of the bracelet in the same way as the first

When we finish the second part of the bracelet and take it off the disk, it's time to connect.

Cut a large amount of beading thread and thread it on the needle. Add Czechmates Triangle beads between SuperDuo beads.

Then we go through the SuperDuo bead of the second bracelet from above and weave the thread through the SD and CZT beads to connect both bracelets.

As you can see after the first lap, the bracelet is very twisted. This is no wonder and no mistake. We go through the beads on both sides 2 more times and with each round the bracelet will straighten. It will not straighten completely, but it will look nice on the wrist. 

After making the connection, we secure and cut the excess thread. Now we assemble the end of our bracelet.

We glue one end first. We wait a few hours (unfortunately) for the glue to bind properly. If it seems okay, we wait another hour to be sure, only when one end is glued together we can start the other.

It's finished! What do you think? I would love to see your version, please share yours on our Facebook group.