How to make a Cubic Right Angle Weave bracelet - jewellery making tutorial | beadsdirect.co.uk
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How to make a Cubic Right Angle Weave bracelet - jewellery making tutorial

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How to make a Cubic Right Angle Weave bracelet - jewellery making tutorial

Designed by: Edyta Rogowska

Difficulty: Intermediate

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Do you sometimes like some handmade jewellery, but you think you can't make a similar one? For many crafters, miracles made with Cubic Right Angle Weave stitch seem unattainable. That is why together with Edyta Rogowska we decided to change it. From this post you will learn how to make a bracelet with Cubic Right Angle Weave stitch, which gives your imagination unlimited scope to show off. So, if you fancy something extra and some time, it's really worth to sit down and do it with Edyta it's a miracle.

Cubic Right Angle Weave is an extremely effective stitch whose basic "cell" is a bead cube.

Although many of you may say that this technique is complicated, I assure you that after today's course you will find that it is not as scary as it looks, and only the first cube is the most difficult

In today's tutorial we will count a lot. We will count cubes and beads ... Counting is necessary if we want our work to be equal. All bows in the bracelet must be the same size and the joints should be at the same height.

Ready? Let's Stitch


Supplies

  • TOHO™ Round 11/0 beads in two colors - for me it's HYBRID ColorTrends Metallic / Kale - 20g and a bit of Gunmetal
  • Threads for beading in the colour of beads (for me it's NYMO size B Evergreen colour) or preferably transparent monofilament threads
  • Needle for beads size 12
  • Lobster Clasp
  • Split rings 6mm surgical steel - 2 pcs
  • Optional - adjustment chain and pendant

Step 1

The bracelet we will make together 16cm long and 3cm high - the number of all cubes in the rope is 202.

We thread 4 beads on the thread and pass the needle through them all again to form a square. We tie both ends of the thread together with a double knot and go through the needle through the first bead (just behind the knot).

The cross formed in this way will form the basis of our first cube. On it we will "build" four walls of our cube. For ease of use, I numbered the base beads in the pictures.


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The thread now comes out of the first bead. We take three beads and stick the needle back to the first base bead only from the other side. The newly added beads are the first wall of the cube.

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We pass the needle through the second bead of the base. We take two beads and stick a needle into the first of the three previously added and again to the second base bead. We pull the thread. Thus, we create the second wall of the cube.

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We stick a needle into the third bead of the base. We take two beads and pass the needle through the first of the two previously added and again the third base bead. We pull the thread. The newly added beads formed the third wall of the cube for us.

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We pass the needle through the fourth bead of the base and up through the third of the beads that formed the first wall of the cube for us. To close the last wall of the cube, we only need one bead. So we take one bead and close the last wall passing the first of the two previously added, the fourth base and up again.

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We go to the upper beads, which formed the second base of the cube for us, and we pass the needle and thread through all of them. To stabilise them, we make one and a half laps.

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After sewing the upper beads, our cube should look like this. The four upper beads simultaneously form the basis of the next cube.

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Similarly, we create more cubes. Their multiple will form a string from which we will "pull" the green bracelet. (When the thread ends, we simply tie a new one and continue working. We thread the ends of the threads between the beads as far as possible from the knot, and cut off their excess)

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Step 9

How to shape the bracelet and sew on fasteners.

STEP 1

When the cord reaches the required length, we proceed to sew the link, on which we will attach the fastener later. We fasten the clasp in the middle of the bracelet height. In our case, it is bead No. 6. We pass between the beads so that the thread comes out of the bead marked 6.

We take 5 beads and one link. We close the beads in a circle, digging into the bead again, from which the thread comes out but from its other side. We go two or three more times through all the beads to strengthen the "handle" of the clasp.

The side of the cord on which we created a circle is the edge of our bracelet.

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When the link is attached, we go between the beads to the bead marked with a number "3" on the cord. From this point, we will begin to create the arches of the bracelet.

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We bend the rope so that it does not twist. We take one TR 11/0 bead in another colour and stick into the 18th bead from the bottom - counting from the one from which the thread comes out (for ease of use I numbered the beads). We take another bead and stick into the first bead from above.

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We go to the other side of the bracelet and repeat the above steps.

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We strengthen the connection in the same way as we connected the base beads of cubes in a rope.

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We proceed to make the second arch. To do this, we go between the beads 5 cubes higher - to the bead marked with the number "5"

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We take a TR 11/0 bead and stick into the 18th bead from the bottom - counting from the one from which the thread comes out. We take another  bead and stick into the first bead from above.

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We go to the other side of the bracelet, repeat the steps from the previous step and strengthen the connection.

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We are creating another arch. We go between the beads 5 cubes down the string.

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We take a TR 11/0 bead and stick into the 18 bead from below. We take another bead and stick into the first bead from above. We go to the other side of the bracelet, add beads and strengthen the connection. We will carry out the above actions until the end of the string.

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When we make the last connection, we go between the beads to the edge of the bracelet to the bead marked with a number "6" in the photo and mount the second part of the fastener.

We take 5 beads and one link. We close the beads in a circle. To strengthen, we go through the beads two or three more times.

You can hang an adjustment chain on the link.

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We pass the thread between the beads to the "tail" left at the beginning of the work. We make a double knot. We thread the ends of the threads between the beads as far as possible from the knot, and cut the excess.

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We put the clasp on a jump ring link and it's ready

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Remember that this tutorial shows a weaving pattern. If you need a shorter bracelet or want to have a narrower version, you need to braid a string with fewer cubes, and the number of beads in the bow must be smaller.

If it is difficult for you to calculate how many cubes in the rope you will need, make several dozen of them, bend a few arches. 

For the purposes of the tutorial, I used green jewellery thread - it is more visible in the pictures and in the same colour as the beads. However, you must know that it is better to use a transparent monofilament thread or c-raw stitch. It is less visible and makes the finished work a little stiffer

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You no doubt know how to make a bracelet with Cubic Right Angle Weave.

Certainly, when you master Cubic Right Angle Weave you will create more than one miracle. Feel free to share you creations with us on our Facebook page Beads Direct & Friends, we would love to see how you made it YOUR WAY.