How to make a beaded cabochon flower - Step by step jewellery making tutorial | beadsdirect.co.uk
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How to make a beaded cabochon flower - Step by step jewellery making tutorial

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How to make a beaded cabochon flower - Step by step jewellery making tutorial

Designed by: Magda

Difficulty: Expert

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We are very pleased to present you with a tutorial to make a stunning flower using TOHO seed beads and a cabochon, by Magdalena Dudali known as Bilq. Together with her you will have the opportunity to learn how to make this gorgeous flower. The tutorial is rather at an advanced level, but we warmly invite you to try it!

The tutorial is intended mainly for people who have already had a bit to do with braided / bead embroidery, but I will try to explain everything so that it is understandable even for beginners - I hope I will succeed.

TECHNIQUES: bead embroidery - braiding the cabochon with circular and  flat peyote.

TIME REQUIRED: at least 4.5 hours (depending on your skill level).

Materials;

- Cabochon, preferably 15-20mm in size
- TOHO Treasure beads (can be replaced with round beads in size 11/0 - approx. 2-2.22mm) and 15/0 (approx. 1.5mm) ) to trim the cabochon.
- TOHO Size 8/0 beads (3-3.2mm) - can be replaced with beads of any size, they will serve as a "frame" for the trimmed cabochon.
- TOHO Size 11/0 beads in three matching colours (preferably dark, medium, light)
- Needle for stringing beads (sizes 10-12)
- Thread - It is best to match them with the colour of the beads.
- Felt or other padding for cabochon sewing - preferably in a colour that matches our work.
- A piece of leather or suede to line our embroidery - preferably in a colour that matches our work.
- Brooch clasp - this is optional
- Glue 

Remember that our tutorials are mainly designed to teach you technique and bring inspiration, so your jewellery doesn't have to look exactly like the one in the tutorial. Don't be afraid to experiment with shapes and colours.

Please note that the colours for the products illustrated in the image above may not match the 'Products List'. 

Step 1

PART 1 - BEAD EMBROIDERY 

We mix a little glue and stick the cabochon to our base. I used felt that was not very thick, folded in half to make it stiffer. We wait for the glue to dry.

Step 1

Step 2

Cut the thread approx 1-1.5 metres long. We tie a knot at the end of the thread (leaving about 5-7cm "tail"). We stick the needle from the bottom of our pad, as close as possible to the cabochon. We thread 4 treasures (or our equivalent). The arrow is always in the direction of the needle.

Step 1

Step 3

1. Insert the needle a bit further, so that there is a place for our 4 beads.

2. Insert the needle from the bottom 2 beads earlier.

3. We thread the needle through these 2 beads.

4. We thread 4 more beads, repeat steps 1-4 until we have the entire cabochon braided.

It is important that the number of beads in our first row is even. It is better to add 1 bead too little than 1 bead too much - they will tighten up a bit when you add the second row.

You should also be careful with stretching the thread - it must not be pulled too tight or too light.

Step 1

Step 4

As you can see the beads are not perfectly aligned. It is worth threading an additional thread through them several times. If you use beads with a smaller hole, be careful not to overdo it with the number of times you go back through them. 

Step 1

Step 5

Our needle should now come out of any bead of the first row. We're going to work with the peyote stitch now. This time we will have to pull the thread tighter. We thread 1 treasure bead, skip the bead in the row below, stick the needle into the next bead. We thread 1 bead again, skip the bead in the row below, stick the needle into the next bead. We repeat the activity until we wrap the whole cabochon.

Step 1

Step 6

We pass to the next row.

After threading the last bead from the previous row, pierce the first bead and the first bead of the previous row (in this case the second).

We continue to work with the peyote stitch. This time it is easier as the added beads are clearly visible. So: we thread 1 bead, pass it through the bead from the previous (second) row, thread the next bead, pass it through the next bead of the previous (second) row. We continue to braid the entire cabochon.

We add 2-3 more rows of treasure beads, depending on the convexity of our cabochon. When we see our beads no longer stick to the cabochon, we don't add any more rows. Time to use smaller beads to narrow the weave.

Step 1

Step 7

We add another row, this time using 15/0 beads. Remember to tighten the thread so that the beads adhere nicely to the cabochon. If they still stick out, it may be because we have added too many rows of treasure beads.

We pass the needle and thread to the first row and stick into our undercoat so that the needle and thread are on the bottom. We tie our thread to the previously left "tail". If we still have at least 30-40 cm of thread left, do not cut it, it will be useful at the next stage. If we only have a piece left, it is better to cut it and thread a new thread (approx. 50 cm).

Step 1

Step 8

Again, we dig into our underlay, this time as close as possible to the braided cabochon. We thread 4 8/0 beads (or in a different size if you prefer). We continue exactly as with the first row of treasure beads.

The picture shows the beads after only one thread pass, if we use large beads, we have to thread the thread so many times until we consider the row to be sufficiently even.

After finishing, we dig into the foundation and tie our thread to the previous ones. Cut off the excess.

Step 1

Step 9

1. We now cut our braided cabochon as close to the beads as possible. Be careful not to cut any threads.

2. We outline our cut cabochon on a piece of leather / suede that we prepared earlier.

3. We cut out the drawn shape.

4. Glue to the cut cabochon, pressing firmly. We can use a droplet of glue, but remember to apply it only to the middle - otherwise it will harden our lining and we will not be able to stick a needle into it.

It is also worth testing our lining at the beginning, natural leather should not let the glue through - but if you are using artificial suede, you should only add small amounts of glue, very carefully - we do not want it to soak onto the top of the work.

Step 1

Step 10

Ready! Our braided cabochon with a foundation. However, it must still be trimmed with beads.

Step 1

Step 11

We prepare a new thread (70cm - 1m). We thread 1 x 11/0 bead in the selected colour (preferably the same as the dark or medium one we have chosen for the petals). It is best to catch the thread about 15 cm before the end so that the bead does not slip off at the beginning of the work. We stick the needle into our base, near the "frame" or even under it, in the direction marked in the photo. We break through the layer of felt (underlay) and leather (lining) from above. Then we stick the needle from the bottom into the bead that we have just threaded, tightening the thread.

We thread a new bead of the same colour. Similarly, we cut from top to bottom, through felt and leather, and then we go through the just strung bead from below.

We repeat the action until we wrap the whole thing. We try to place the beads as close to each other as possible, but be careful not to add too many of them - then the foundation will wave.

Step 1

Step 12

Our base is ready. You still need to tie, fasten and cut off the excess thread.

Step 1

Step 13

PART 2 - PETALS 

In this part of the tutorial, we will only work with the flat peyote stitch.

We'll start by weaving half a petal. We prepare a thread about 1-1.2 m long.

1. We thread 4 beads 11/0 in colour a (dark), 1b (medium), 1a, 2b, 1c (light), 1b, 6c. We should have 16 beads. We shift them to HALF of our thread - this is very important.

2. Stick the needle into bead no. 15 (threaded penultimate), thread 1c, skip 1 bead and stick into the next one, thread 1c again, skip the bead and insert the needle into the next one. We continue the work in the same way as when braiding the cabochon, only this time flat and not in a circle. After reaching the first threaded bead, we should have something resembling the 2nd picture.
We continue to work according to the diagrams below. I have included several versions, more and less detailed, depending on which one will be easier for you to work with.

3. Half of our petal should look like this. After passing through the last bead, we tie a knot, securing the thread and pass the needle through about 5-7 beads, then cut off the excess thread.

4. We weave the second half of the petal. To do this, we thread the needle on the second half of our thread.
We thread 1a, go through bead no.2, thread 1a, go through no.4, 1b, no.6, 1b, no.8, 1c, no.10, 1c, no.12, 1c, no.14, 1c, no.16. threaded on 1c (No. 64 in the picture) and we start the next row.

Our petal is ready. After going through the last bead, we also tie and secure the thread, then cut off its excess.

We must remember to tighten the thread all the time. Thanks to this, the petal will have a nice, rounded shape. See the images below. 

It is best to make 6-7 petals, I explain how to choose the number of petals in the next section.

Step 1

Step 2

Step 3

Step 4

Step 5

Step 14

First, we need to count how many edge beads we have (the ones with which we connected the undercoat with the lining). Our petals have 6 beads at the base, so it would be best for us to get the number divisible by 6. However, if we have, for example, 39, we have a choice:

- make 6 petals, then we will sew every second petal next to each other, and every second one bead apart. The flower will have the petals curled outwards.

- make 7 petals, then sew 3 to 5 edge beads and 4 to six. The flower will have the petals curled inwards.

It is important to plan how and where we will sew petals. It is ideal when each petal is sewn up to 6 edge beads and the next one is placed right next to it, without skipping the edge bead, but this will rarely be the case.

However, assuming that we sew the petals to the 6 edge beads, it will look like this:

Step 1

Step 15

We thread a new thread, approx. 1-1.3 m. From the top, enter the bead number 1 with the needle (leave about 15 cm "tail"), from the bottom go to the bead number 2. Insert the needle into 1 bead of the petal, i.e. number 3 in 18 pictures. From the top, enter the next bead, number 4, and connect it to the bead number 5.

Continue as shown in the picture. Sew the next petal next to it, starting with the bead number 14 which we connect with the thread with the first bead of the next petal.

Step 1

Step 2

Step 16

The flower is almost ready. Now sew the petals together so that the whole thing looks nice.

We do it according to the illustration. I used two different colours to illustrate the method more clearly, we use one piece of thread of course. We repeat this between all the petals. We can also sew them our own way, we don't have to stick to the instructions. It is only important that they are well connected with each other.

We can use the thread that we used to sew the petals to the base if we threaded too much. If it is not long enough, of course it should be tied and secured by dragging it through several lying beads next to each other.

Step 1

Step 17

Finally, we can spread some glue (this time it's really worth using two-component epoxy glue) and stick the brooch clasp on the bottom. This is optional and the flower can be used on it's own for decoration. 

Step 1