Festive Napkin Rings - Home Décor Tutorial | beadsdirect.co.uk
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Festive Napkin Rings - Home Décor Tutorial

Information about project:

Festive Napkin Rings - Home Décor Tutorial

Designed by: Julie Dudley

Difficulty: Beginner

Rating:

Follow Julie's latest wire tutorial and learn how to make your own beautiful Napkin Rings - perfect for adding colour to any festive table. Ready> Let's get Creative!

You can add all the items you need to your basket by clicking the box in the 'Products used' section above, or you can let your imagination run wild and choose your own materials from the links below. Please note that the colours for the products illustrated in the image above may not match the 'Products List'.

Tools:

  • Round Nose Pliers
  • Flat Nose or Chain Nose pliers
  • Sire Cutters
  • Mandrels or objects to wrap circle shapes, such as a marker pen
  • Tape measure

We believe that jewellery should be as individual as you are and so our tutorials are for inspiration and learning purposes. They include links to the relevant categories for you to choose your own colour combinations and we positively encourage you to experiment with different shapes, sizes, finishes, composition and texture. Why not choose your own colours to achieve something in your own style? Let your creative imagination run wild and make your dream piece of jewellery.

Designed by Julie Dudley - November 2021

Step 1

Before we start:

The 1.5 metres each of green and violet aluminum wire is enough to create up to 1 pair of napkin rings.

Firstly before putting the design together, we are going to cut all the pieces of aluminum wire needed to create your napkin rings. Measurements are extremely important when making multiple matching pieces of Wirework.
Undo the coil, you will notice that the wire at the end is slightly bent where it has been wrapped to the reel. Even thick Aluminium wire such as this is extremely pliable, so run the ends through your thumb and forefinger to straighten out the wire a bit. It doesn't have to be perfectly straight as we can use this where it won't really be noticable.
You need to cut:

• 10 cm of green wire for each napkin ring you wish to make. These will be the beaded wreaths. You can cut these pieces from the ends of wire which are not perfectly straight as they will be covered in beads. Cut up to four pieces as required.
• 30 cm piece of green wire for each central piece of framework
• 2 x 15 cm pieces of green wire for each napkin ring you are creating. These sit either side of the main part of the frame and will be woven to it to make the main body.

Step 2

First we are going to make the beaded Christmas wreath sections of the napkin rings

Take your 10 cm lengths of green wire.

Wrap around your mandrel or the object you are using to make a loop. I have used the top of a nail varnish bottle to show basic tools can be used.

The wires need to cross over with one wire end longer than the other.

Repeat this for all of your 10 cm sections making sure that they all look the same.

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Hold the longest wire end flush in your round nose pliers, so nothing is sticking out between each nose ( this helps to create a perfect loop rather than a P-shape).

Aluminium wire is extremely soft so you will get some dents, especially using your pliers. Don't hold your pliers exceptionally hard. You are gently coaxing the wire around with the pliers.

It doesn't matter whether the end of your loop faces forward or backwards, as this loop is just how you will attach to the rest of the napkin rings.

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Cut 70 cm of your bright violet wire, and tip out some of your autumn mix seed beads.

Hold the end of the bright violet wire under the green looped end at the top, with a small amount overhanging. If your frame is sitting a different way that doesn't matter in this instance as long as you start at the top.

We are going to take the wire around in the direction which causes the least stress on it.

Holding the start of the violet wire to the green frame, bring the long section through the gap between the top green wires. Take it around so it sits at the side of the bit you were holding and take it underneath again. Then bring it back through the gap, then around next to the previous wrap, then back through the gap until it sits in the middle. Make sure that the two wires are sat next to each other by gently pushing together with your finger.

These are your first two wraps.

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Add five seed beads to your violet wire. Start to bring the wire over the green wire, but hold a couple of the seed beads to the frame whilst wrapping the rest of the wire with the other beads attached through the gap at the top, and into the middle.

Hold the last few seed beads to the frame and take the violet wire around and through the gap, finishing in the middle. Push the wires together up the frame to neaten if needed.

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Keep following steps four and five, wrapping the violet wire around the frame twice with no seed beads and twice around the frame with five seed beads (keeping them to the front of the frame) until you reach the top of the frame where it crosses over.

Trim the ends of the violet wire away and squeeze the end of the wire down gently with your flat nose pliers to secure.

You can neaten your piece by giving the weave a bit of a wiggle, to make sure that the beads are sat to the front.

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Take your flat nose pliers and carefully and gently bend the end of the green wire around underneath the loop and squeeze lightly.

Repeat steps four to seven with all of your wreath pieces. Put your finished wreaths to one side.

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Take your 30 cm  pieces of wire and place your mandrel or whatever you have to create a circle ( I'm using a marker pen).

Wrap the wire around, you will be able to tell if it is central or thereabouts if you get both ends to meet together at the bottom, before finishing pushing the wire around into the circle.

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Step 9

Take your flat or chain nose pliers. Place them under the point where the wires cross and make a sharp 90 degree bend up in one of the wires. Do the same with the other end of the wire, make sure that they sit next to each other, but not to tightly, as we have to wrap wire between them later.

Repeat steps eight and nine with all of your

30 cm sections.

Mine have a slight length difference, so I have trimmed them all the same length to match exactly. Do this with yours if any difference is noticeable.

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Take one of your main looped frames and place one of the wire ends into your round nose pliers so that it is flush with nothing sticking out, so that you create a perfect loop.

Your pliers need to be in line with the large loop as shown, as the small loops need to face inwardly from the end. Turn your hand and the wire to create the loop. Repeat on the other end.

Repeat for all of the wire ends on your main frame pieces.

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Step 11

Firstly, because aluminium wire is so exceptionally soft, you are bound to make some dents when using your tools, it is inevitable, so grip the wire but not so tight that you make the dents worse. You are gently coaxing the wire. In some circumstances you can use your fingers as an extra tool, to minimize the marking.

Pick up one of the 15 cm pieces of green Aluminium  wire, and again create a loop at one end. Repeat at the other end making sure that it is in line with the first. Now place this piece next to the main frame, to give you an idea of sizing, as we now need to coil these loops inwards to make a swirl that will sit just at the base of the main frame hoop, next to where it straightens off, and the other end just before the two small loops on the main frame.

So hold onto one of the loops just created on a 15 cm section in your flat nose pliers, and push the wire with your thumb or finger, so that the loop moves inwards to create the coil.

Do the same with the other end, and keep holding the section next to the main frame, to check if it sits nicely and adjust if necessary.

Now that you have this piece finished, repeat with all of your 15cm sections of wire.

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Step 12

Cut 3 metres 20 cm of bright violet 0.5mm wire. This should be enough to finish the full weave on your napkin ring, without having to add more wire.

Hold the main frame component in your none dominant hand, along with one of the coiled 15 cm pieces, which you will hold in place just below the main frame.

Lay the violet wire on top of those wires, with a slight overlap at the top.

Take that wire up behind the bottom green wire, bring it over that bottom wire to the front and then around to the back.

Take it up over the second green wire to bring to the front, and down under that second wire to the back (between the bottom and second wires).

Take it up over the third green wire and to the front, and down under that third wire to the back (between the second and third wire).

Now pick up another 15 cm coiled section and hold it in place next to the main frame.

Take the violet wire up and over the top of that wire, and down under that wire to the back (between the fourth and third wire).

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As you can see, on the way up the wires you are taking the violet wire around each green wire once. Although on the way back down you are going to take the violet wire over two wires, and come out at the front between those two wires.

So you are bringing the violet wire down over the top two wires and going underneath that wire. Then around the back and bring the wire out in-between the two wires you just wrapped.

Then next you are going over two wires again, taking the wire under that wire. Then around the back and bring the wire back to the front by bringing it between the two wires just wrapped.

Then wrap over the bottom two wires, taking the violet wire under and up through between those two wires.

You are now back at the beginning. Push your weaves together neatly on the frame and adjust the 15 cm coiled sections if they are not sitting correctly.

Repeat steps twelve and Thirteen, going around each wire once on the way up and over two wires and between those two wires on the way down. When you get to the end, and you have neatened the weave, cut the violet wires somewhere at the back and gently squeeze down the ends.

Repeat for every napkin ring frame you are creating.

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Take all of your finished napkin ring sections, and start to bend one around a mandrel or whatever you have to hand (I have the base of a nail varnish), with the two loops on the inside. Shape until the two loops meet up with the large one.

Repeat for all of your napkin rings.

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Take a pair of flat or chain nose pliers and open the two loops by gently pulling towards you. You may have to access them by putting your pliers through the large loop.

Now we are at a rather fiddly bit, but persevere. It may take a bit of moving about of the wire and large loop. You need to get the little loops over the large one and close them shut.

I was as careful as I could be, only trying to use my pliers on the underside of the loops, because they won't show. Also using my fingers where possible, to keep paint chips and denting to a minimum. If you have to straighten your work back up after having moved it about, put it back on the mandrel or object, and gently shape with your hands.

Repeat for all of your napkin rings.

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First make sure that you have all of your napkin rings the same way up. (Whichever way you choose, your beaded wreaths will sit at the bottom)

Open the loop on one of the wreaths with your flat nose pliers, by very gently pulling towards you.

Make sure that the beaded side is sitting to the front, and attach to the loop on one of the napkin rings, then close the loop.

Repeat for all of your napkin rings.

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Step 17

You now have your beautiful napkin rings for your Christmas table.

Why not do the same design with slightly shorter wire measurements for the main frame, and make a matching decoration for the top of your bottle of wine for the table?

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