Cappuccino Swirl Necklace - Jewellery Making Tutorial | beadsdirect.co.uk
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Cappuccino Swirl Necklace - Jewellery Making Tutorial

Information about project:

Cappuccino Swirl Necklace - Jewellery Making Tutorial

Designed by: Julie Dudley

Difficulty: Beginner

Rating:

Follow my latest tutorial to make your own Cappuccino Swirl Necklace. You can of course, choose your own colour combinations or maybe even choose entirely different beads to make it your own.
Whether you're a Cappuccino lover or if Pumpkin Spice Latte is more your thing, I wish you happy beading! Julie x

You can add all the items you need for the bracelet to your basket by clicking the box in the 'Products used' section above, or you can let your imagination run wild and choose your own materials from the links below. Please note that the colours for the products illustrated in the image above may not match the 'Products Used List':

Before we start: I have decided to show two ways to finish this necklace, either with calotte ends, which I will show later, or also how to make ends from 2 Eyepins and a few complimenting seed beads. Using 2 Eyepins is a way to make a secure ending for threaded pieces if you do not have calottes or wire guardians, as you cannot just attach a jump ring unless it is soldered, as the thread will slip through the join.

Also, as we are using so many similar colour and size beads I have given each a shortened code....

  • G6 - grey size 6
  • M6 - mocha size 6
  • T8 - smoked topaz size 8
  • B8 - beige size 8
  • M10 - mocha size 10

We believe that jewellery should be as individual as you are and so our tutorials are for inspiration and learning purposes. They include links to the relevant categories for you to choose your own colour combinations and we positively encourage you to experiment with different shapes, sizes, finishes, composition and texture. Why not choose your own beads and colours to achieve something in your own style? Let your creative imagination run wild and make your dream piece of jewellery?

Designed by Julie Dudley - March 2022

Step 1

Step One:

Take an eyepin and pick up 1x M10, 1x B8 and 1x M10.

Hold the eyepin in your round nose pliers right up against the beads so that the plier nose is covering 3-4mm of the wire, and so that the loop on the eyepin is flat in line with the pliers.

Bend the tail end of the eyepin straight down 90 degrees underneath the pliers. Reposition your pliers to hold the eyepin against the top of the bend on the section without beads, and push the tail end of wire right over the top of the plier nose as far as it will go. Whilst leaving the pliers in the loop, turn the pliers so that the nose with the eyepin on it is at the bottom, then push the end of the wire the rest of the way around to form the loop.

Repeat this step with the second eyepin.

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Step Two:

Put the loop you have just made on one of the eyepins back onto your round nose pliers. Hold the pliers in your left (non-dominant) hand. Take your flat or chain nose pliers in your right (or dominant) hand. With the eyepin on the bottom nose start to pull the tail end of the wire around underneath the loop you are holding (by keeping the loop you made on the pliers, it helps to keep its shape whilst wrapping)

Keep pulling and readjusting your hands until you have a small end of wire left over. Start to squeeze the end down very gently with your pliers, making sure that you do not squeeze the seed beads as they will shatter. If you have too much wire left over to fit in the gap, you can trim some away with your flush cutters. Make sure that the end of the wire is squashed down with no sharp ends.

Repeat this step with your other eyepin.

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Step Three:

Thread your needle with 200cm thread.

We are going to create all of the spiral sections before finishing the ends, so we will leave a long thread that we can use for the second side.

Put a pile of each of the beads out on your beading mat, if you put a note of each code next to each bead, it may make it easier.

Leave approximately a 60cm tail end and hold in your left (non-dominant) hand.

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Step Four:

Using the code, I have given to each bead, pick up 5x M6 (these will be part of the central core), 2x M10, 2x T8, and 2x B8.

Sew back up the 5 M10 core beads.

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Step 5

Step Five:

Pick up 1x M6, 2x M10, 2x T8 and 2x B8. Sew back up through just the last five M6 beads added, and push the smaller beads which will form the spiral, around the back of the core and to the left and hold with your hand before adding the next set. (Every time we add the next section to form the spiral, always push it around to the back to the left, otherwise you are likely to get the rows out of order and therefore no even spiral).

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Step Six: 

Repeat step five another 4 times, until you have a central core of 10 of the M6 beads. Each time you pick up new beads, push them down to your finished work before sewing back through only 5 of the central core beads including the one just added. Remembering to push the new spiral beads around the back to the left!

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Step Seven:

Pick up 3x G6 (these form the gap between each spiral twist section). Try to keep the tension by pushing these beads tight up to your work when adding the next beads to form the spiral, although if you get a slight gap, we can sew through to tighten later.

Repeat steps four and five until you have 10 of the central M6 core beads and have finished another section, then pick up 3x G6.

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Step Eight:

Keep repeating step four,  five and six then adding 3x G6 beads in-between each spiral, until you have six of the spiral sections in total.

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Step Nine:

We do not want to run out of thread in this final section of this side up to the clasp. So, add 80cm of new thread to your needle. Take your needle in through the fifth M6 core bead before the end of the last section and come out two before the end. Pull your thread through slowly, leaving a few centimetres tail end hanging from the bead you entered.
Hold onto the tail end and pass your needle underneath the thread that sits between the bead you have just come out from and the next (this is called the thread bridge). Slowly pull your needle and thread through under the thread bridge until a loop forms. Take your needle through the loop and pull slowly but firmly until a knot forms on the thread bridge. Take your needle through the last two core beads so you are in place for the next step. The other thread that is now hanging will be sewn into our work later to strengthen.

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Step Ten:

We are now going to finish one side of the necklace. I am going to make it approximately 18 inches in length, by adding and repeating a simple pattern of the seed beads. If you would prefer a longer necklace, just add an extra section or two of the seed bead pattern before adding the clasp, but make sure that you do the same on both sides. Measuring from the central bead of the piece we have just beaded is approximately 4 inches, so the beading and clasp section we add to each side will need to be approximately 5 inches in length to make up the 18 inches. So, pick up 3x G6....

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Step Eleven:

Pick up 1x M6, 1x T8, 1x B8, 2x M10, 1x B8 and 1x T8.
Repeat this step Seven more times until you can count 8 of the largest size 6 beige beads after the three grey ones. Then pick up one last B6 bead to finish off the pattern evenly. From the central bead this side now measures just under 9 inches to make the 18-inch necklace, but remember you can add some more of the pattern if you wish to have a longer necklace.

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Step Twelve:

Now we need to add a clasp..... You can either use the eyepin components if you made them at the beginning of this tutorial, or use calottes, I will show both ways...

For the eyepin components: Thread through the closed loop on one of the components, and back into some of your beading. Pull your thread tightly and try to hold the beading firmly in place with your left (non-dominant) hand. You may have to adjust the beads and give everything a wiggle to make sure that you have no gaps.

Once you have the tension secure your threads. Sarah made a great little video to show you how to do this if you are new to beading. You can find it HERE

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Or for the calottes: Take your needle through the small hole in the clam section of the calotte, pick up one of the smallest seed beads, or a small metal crimp if you have one, and sew back through the small hole in the bottom of the calotte, so that the seed bead sits in the clam shell. Sew back into some of your beading.  Pull your thread tightly and try to hold the beading firmly in place with your left (non-dominant) hand. You may have to adjust the beads and give everything a wiggle to make sure that you have no gaps.

Once you have the tension secure your threads. Sarah made a great little video to show you how to do this if you are new to beading. You can find it HERE

Sarah also made a fab little video, showing you how to use a calotte. You can view it HERE.

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Step Fourteen: 

Use the rest of this thread to sew back through your work, knotting in a few places as we just did. I advise going back through the calotte and seed bead, or eyepin again at least once more, as this is the area most likely to wear through friction. The more you can strengthen your work the better.

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Step Fifteen: (missing pic 1 & 2)

Go to the other side of your necklace. There should already be enough thread on this side to finish this section, as we left it there at the start. If you don't think there is enough then add more thread in by knotting to a thread bridge as we have done earlier. Repeat steps Ten, Eleven, Twelve, Thirteen and Fourteen, so you add the same beads and clasp section to the opposite side.

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Step Sixteen:

If you would like to add a charm or pendant, such as the heart I am using here, you can either use a piece of thread that is already left-over if it is long enough to reach the middle. Or add in another length of thread in the same way as we have done before, by knotting to a thread bridge. If you want to add thread in, you will need to add around 30cm or more if you want to use the rest to strengthen your work.

Either way, with the thread you are using, sew through to the grey section of three size 6 (G6) beads in the centre of the six spiral sections.

Sew through the first of the three beads and pick up 4x M10 beads, then sew in the opposite direction the next grey bead along to form a loop below the central grey bead.

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Step Seventeen:

Sew back down through the first two M10 beads, pick up another 2x M10 beads, followed by the charm you are adding and another 2x M10 beads.

Sew back through the two M10 beads already there and the middle size 6 grey bead and knot as we have done previously to hold the charm in place. Pass through all the beads in this step as many times as your needle and thread will allow to reinforce. Sew back through your work and secure your thread as before.


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Step Eighteen:

Now to add the clasp

If you have used the eyepin components, take one of your ends and hold the loop upright so that the beads don't slide into the loop. Open the loop with your flat nose pliers towards you and attach the lobster clasp to the loop and close again with your pliers. Repeat with the other end but adding a jump ring, making sure that the jump ring is fully closed first.

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Step Nineteen:

If you have used calottes, add the lobster clasp onto one of the hook ends of your calotte. Gently squeeze the bottom of the hook together with your pliers. Don't squeeze it too tightly as there needs to be enough room for the clasp to move, but the hook should be closed without a gap, so that the lobster clasp doesn't fall off.

Next gently squeeze together the clam shell section, but not too tightly, as you do not want the seed bead to shatter.

Repeat on the other end but attach a jump ring, making sure that the jump ring is completely closed first.

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Secure any loose tails of thread as before and trim excess. And it is ready to wear!

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