Boho Chic Tassel Necklace- Jewellery Making Necklace Tutorial | beadsdirect.co.uk
0

Boho Chic Tassel Necklace- Jewellery Making Necklace Tutorial

Information about project:

Boho Chic Tassel Necklace- Jewellery Making Necklace Tutorial

Designed by: Julie Dudley

Difficulty: Intermediate

Rating:

Learn how to make this Boho Chic Tassel Necklace designed by Julie Dudley.  Julie has created this beautiful necklace in two colourways, so all you need to do is decide on the colour and follow her step by step tutorial. Happy Beading!

You can add all the items you need to your basket by clicking the box in the 'Products used' section above, or you can let your imagination run wild and choose your own materials from the links below. Please note that the colours for the products illustrated in the image above may not match the 'Products List'. 

Remember - our tutorials are for inspiration and learning purposes. They include links to the relevant categories for you to choose your own colour combinations and we positively encourage you to experiment with different shapes, sizes, finishes, composition and texture. Why not choose your own beads and colours to achieve something in your own style? Let your imagination run wild and make your dream jewellery.

Designed by Julie Dudley - August 2021

Step 1

Step 1 - To make the tassel section:
You will need your flexrite 49, one of the long bead caps, one heart spacer bead, 3x 0.6mm jump rings and crimp beads.

Open one of your jump rings by holding in the two pairs of pliers and open the ring towards you, like opening a gate. Place the second closed jump ring onto that ring and close the first jump ring again. (A tip when closing a jump ring, is to go slightly past where the wire ends meet and then bring it forward again so they meet. This gives a better closure).

Step 1

Step 2

Step 2

Step 2

Pick up the third jump ring and open with your pliers as before. Feed this jump ring through both of the other jump rings, and close. Lay the linked jump rings down on your mat, and if you put the end of your pliers in the centre of the three rings and give a bit of a wiggle, they should all sit nicely. This is called a mobius ring.

Step 1

Step 2

Step 3

Step 4

Step 3

Step 3

Cut four lengths of your flexrite beading thread at approximately 20cm long. Line all of your threads up together and feed through your mobius ring. Gather all of the 8 ends together so that the mobius ring sits centrally on the threads.

Step 1

Step 2

Step 3

Step 4

Step 4

Cut four lengths of your flexrite beading thread at approximately 20cm long. Line all of your threads up together and feed through your mobius ring. Gather all of the 8 ends together so that the mobius ring sits centrally on the threads.

Step 1

Step 2

Step 5

Step 5

Gather all of the ends together and pass through the top hole in the bead cap This may take a bit of fiddling as you need all of the ends sticking out through the bottom, and not through the openwork design on the bead cap. You can flare the pointed ends of the metal bead cap slightly to make this a bit easier. It may also be helpful to grab the thread ends with your pliers and pull them through. Once they are all sticking out of the bottom, you can pull each thread to adjust so that they are hanging at a similar length again.

Step 1

Step 2

Step 3

Step 6

Step 6

Pour out a small pile of your size 10 seed beads, and a few of your silver crimp beads. Start threading the seed beads onto one of the thread ends, until it is full right up inside the bead cap and hold onto the other thread ends whilst doing this. We are making sure that this first thread is completely full of beads down inside the bead cap, so that the bead cap cannot slide down the threads. When you have enough beads on the thread with a small gap at the end, add a crimp bead.

Step 1

Step 2

Step 3

Step 4

Step 5

Step 7

Step 7

On a set of crimping pliers there are two sections in which to crimp which can be a bit fiddly to master, so if you have never done this before, I would advise to practice on a piece of spare beading wire first. You could also use a pair of flat nose pliers, but getting the second bend can also be tricky. On the crimping pliers, the inner section which you use first, bends the crimp slightly and squeezes it tightly to the beading wire. The second section bends the crimp fully in half, then you can always use the tip to squeeze it down further. Whilst holding all of the beaded section firmly, move the crimp to the inner section of of the Crimping pliers and carefully squeeze the crimp bead firmly, without squashing the glass beads which would smash. Move it to the second section towards the tip of the pliers, and hold the crimp lengthways inside the Crimping plier jaws, and squeeze firmly so that it squashes the crimp in half. ( If you struggle because the crimps are quite small, just do the first part of the crimping and check it is strong. Also if you do not have Crimping pliers you can just squeeze really firmly in your flat nose pliers) Repeat on all 8 lengths of thread, although you don't need to add quite so many beads to the other threads, but make sure you have threaded more than enough that you won't have a gap between the beads and the bead cap when it's dangling.

Step 1

Step 2

Step 3

Step 4

Step 8

Step 8

Now to create the chainmail section of the necklace. Take eight of your 0.8mm jump rings and eight of your 0.5mm jump rings. Open all of your 0.5mm jump rings and two of your 0.8mm jump rings in the same way that you did with the jump rings in step one, opening them with two pairs of pliers and opening towards you. Make sure that the other 0.8mm jump rings are fully closed, as the neatness will be affected if they are not sufficiently closed.

Step 1

Step 2

Step 9

Step 8

Now to create the chainmail section of the necklace. Take eight of your 0.8mm jump rings and eight of your 0.5mm jump rings. Open all of your 0.5mm jump rings and two of your 0.8mm jump rings in the same way that you did with the jump rings in step one, opening them with two pairs of pliers and opening towards you. Make sure that the other 0.8mm jump rings are fully closed, as the neatness will be affected if they are not sufficiently closed.

Step 10

Step 9

Take two of your closed 0.8mm jump rings and put onto one of your open 0.5mm jump rings, then close with your pliers. Take another 0.5mm open jump ring and attach it to the two 0.8mm jump rings in the same way.

Step 1

Step 2

Step 3

Step 4

Step 11

Step 10

Take two more 0.8mm closed jump rings and two open 0.5mm jump rings. Feed one of the 0.5mm open jump rings through the first two 0.8mm jump rings and add the second two 0.8mm jump rings onto it, and then close with your pliers. Repeat with the second open 0.5mm jump ring, so it sits side by side with the first.

Step 1

Step 2

Step 3

Step 4

Step 12

Step 11

Take two more 0.8 closed jump rings and two more 0.5mm open jump rings. Feed one of the 0.5mm jump rings through the last two 0.8mm jump rings added, and add the two new closed jump rings, then close with your pliers. Do the same with the next 0.5mm open jump ring, feeding it through the last two, and the new 0.8mm jump rings, and close with your pliers.

Step 1

Step 2

Step 3

Step 4

Step 13

Step 12

Take each of the last two open 0.5mm jump rings in turn, and feed through the last two 0.8mm jump rings in the row, and close with your pliers. Lie your work out flat on your beading mat.

Step 1

Step 2

Step 3

Step 4

Step 14

Step 13

Take one of your two open 0.8mm jump rings.  It needs to feed in-between the first two 0.8mm jump rings that are sat on top of each other (like the filling in a sandwich) and in-between the next two 0.8mm jump rings, so it goes completely around the 0.5mm jump rings in the middle. Then close that jump ring with your pliers ( it's easier to figure out where it goes if you leave your work flat on your beading mat to begin with) Take the last 0.8mm open jump ring and feed it in-between the middle two and last two 0.8mm in the same way, making sure it is encircling the two central 0.5mm jump rings.

Step 1

Step 2

Step 3

Step 4

Step 15

Step 14

Repeat steps eight to thirteen to create a second section of chain.

Step 1

Step 16

Step 15

Repeat steps eight to thirteen twice more, but this time using 0.7mm jump rings, instead of the 0.8mm jump rings, along with the 0.5mm, so you have four sections of helms weave chain. You can now lay your components out on your beading mat where they will sit in the final piece, with the sections with 0.8mm jump rings either side of the tassel, and the section with the 0.7mm jump rings higher up.

Step 1

Step 2

Step 3

Step 17

Step 16

Take six of your 0.6mm jump rings. We now need to make two mobius rings as before by following steps one and two.

Step 1

Step 2

Step 18

Step 17

You can now lay your mobius rings in-between the sections of chain, where they will sit We just need to open the end two 0.5mm jump rings in turn and attach to its nearest mobius ring.

Open one of the 0.5mm jump rings on the end of a section of your helms weave chain, nearest to the mobius ring at the top of the tassel. Feed the open jump ring through the centre of the mobius ring at the top of the tassel and close. Open the second 0.5mm jump ring at the end, and feed that through the same mobius ring and close. Repeat with the matching section of helms weave on the opposite side of the tassel.

Step 1

Step 2

Step 3

Step 4

Step 19

Step 18

We are going to attach all of the other sections together in the same way. So, open each of the 0.5mm jump rings in turn on the opposite end of the helms weave sections you have just joined, and attach them to the other two mobius rings.

Step 1

Step 2

Step 20

Step 19

Open the 0.5mm jump rings on one end of the final sections of helms weave in turn, and attach to the mobius rings next to them.

Step 1

Step 2

Step 3

Step 21

Step 20

Cut approximately 65cm of your flexrite 49, and cut two 1mm sections of your French wire with your wire cutters. Take one end of your flexrite and add two of the small crimp beads and one of your pieces of French wire to the end. ( I am using two crimp beads for more security, as these are only small and two will fit under the crimp cover, if you are using bigger crimp beads, just add one). Thread the end of the flexrite through the last two 0.5mm jump rings on one side of your work, and feed it back through the two crimp beads.

Step 1

Step 2

Step 3

Step 4

Step 22

Step 21

Push the crimps up towards the French wire, and with your crimping pliers, squeeze each of the two crimps in the inner section of the pliers, as you did when you made the tassel. Then move to the outer section of the pliers, to bend the crimps in half. Place a crimp cover over the two crimps and gently squeeze together with your pliers, so it looks like a bead.

Step 1

Step 2

Step 23

Step 22

Start adding your size 10 Preciosa seed beads, making sure that the first few cover the beading wire ends as well. Then keep threading beads until you get near the end of the flexrite, with about 5cm left.

Step 1

Step 2

Step 24

Step 23

Add two of your crimp beads and your final piece of French wire onto the end of your flexrite, and feed it back through the two crimps and a few of the seed beads, then pull it tight so it leaves a very slight gap between the crimps and the French wire. Squash the crimps down in the inner section of the crimping pliers as before, then move to the outer section to squeeze them in half.  ( Be careful not to squash a seed bead in the pliers, as it will shatter). Pick up a crimp cover and place it over the crimps, and gently squeeze with your pliers until closed. Trim any overhanging piece of flexrite.

Although I have made this necklace long with no clasp for ease of wear, it could be made a shorter length if you make the beaded section in two halves and add more crimps, French wire and crimp covers and add a jump ring and clasp to either side.

Step 1

Step 2

Step 3

Step 4

Step 5