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Swarovski Innovations – Fall/Winter 18/19

The latest Innovations from Swarovski Create Your Style encapsulate the bright, joyful colours that shine best in the sunlight and the muted, subtle hues that emerge from shadowed surroundings. Explore Swarovski’s four new themes that reflect these ideas in the form of Nostalgia (serene and minimal), Elegantia (retro and decadent), Funtasia (quirky and bright) and Urbania (raw and gritty).

This elegant theme from the Swarovski Innovations for Fall/Winter 2018/19 encapsulates our love of storytelling through fashion. ‘Nostalgia‘ has been created by lovers of Victorian style and fresh, clean tones. The theme features a minimal palette including the new Crystal Velvet Brown Pearl, Crystal Grey and ivory colour stones. Combine these with some classic tones such as Crystal Antique Pink and Vintage Rose for a romantic design.

Create statement pieces inspired by 1920’s eccentricity. This colourful theme shows off Swarovski’s new colour – Crystal Scarlet (See more below). There’s a retro feel to the ‘Elegantia‘ theme that plays out across Swarovski’s colour choices and shapes that can be combined onto simple accessories. Bright, fun tones match effortlessly with neutral vintage effects such as the new Crystal Velvet Brown pearls, Crystal Copper and Crystal Olivine beads. This sophisticated theme allows for highly embellished, textured creations and encourages wearers to decorate along hemlines, gloves, dress straps and other trims to frame simple dresses and add a splash of colour to an outfit.

The ‘Funtasia‘ theme is designed to show off a sense of positivity through fashion. The combination of primary colours and fun new shapes steers designers away from the seriousness of adulthood and brings them back to joyful, childish innocence. Combine these stunning beads and stones with more subtle tones such as Crystal Powder Yellow and Crystal Peony Pink. Make up your own quirky detailing with the brand new Fancy Eye Stones, and the fun Starbloom Fancy Stone. Combine these dazzling shapes with simple round flat backs and frame them with matching tones such as the latest Shimmer Effect beads!

The ‘Urbania‘ theme encapsulates our growing need to repair and re-use materials more in the future. The urban colours and textures reflect the city streets with a handful of rich green and golden tones added sparsely throughout designs. This streetwise theme combines metallics, iridescent pearls and sharp shapes, perfect for party-wear and city trip outfits. Get creative with dagger finishes and edgy shapes including the stunning Trilliant 3 hole sew on stone. Add a splash of colour to your Urbania style designs with the beautiful Crystal Royal Green and the effortlessly elegant Crystal Montana blue stones.


The new ‘Growing Crystal‘ druzy effect stones were designed by Iris Van Herpen to resemble a cross section of a geode. These glamorous crystals follow on from 2016’s ‘Kaputt’ pendants designed by Jean Paul Gaultier. The ideas for both designs stem from inner beauty. Van Herpen’s growing crystals emphasise the power of natural creation and the imperfections that lead to dazzling beauty. Each pendant has an amazing shine and can be paired with simple clear or jet black beads to frame them as a centre piece, or simply attached to a matching bail to hang at the centre of a necklace.


The new ‘Shimmer Effect‘ was inspired by Swarovski’s Aurora Borealis collection. The crystal’s light-refracting properties cast multiple shades of a single colour for eye catching combinations. These gorgeous Shimmer Effect crystals are available in elegant chaton sizes, classic square fancy stones and brilliantly colourful crystal bicones and faceted round beads. You can also find them in hotfix and non-hotfix crystal sizes, perfect for using to embellish accessories such as purses, scarves, gloves and stationery! You can explore more and find out how you can embellish your own accessories HERE.


Crystal Scarlet is one of the new sparkling colours that has just joined the Swarovski Fall/Winter 2018/19 colour palette. It has been described by Swarovski as an elegant shade of red. The stylish tone is available in a myriad of size and shape options including essential bicone beads, fancy stones and more, meaning the possibilities with this romantic tone are endless!


Shimmer Ring | Beaded Loom Jewellery

A gorgeous selection of metallic bracelet and ring bases have just arrived and we’re getting creative personalising our favourites! I chose to use a rose gold plated ring base and created a simple loomed piece to fit around the edge. I wanted my loomed beads to be as flat and neat as possible when they were secured to the ring, so size 15 seed beads were a great option. Using such tiny beads will mean you’ll need a size 10 or 12 beading needle and you’ll only be able to thread through each row two or three times.

Below I’ll show you how to make a full ring that will be sewn together to fit over your ring, and I’ll also show you how to make a loomed strip that can be glued on to keep your ring flexible and slightly adjustable in size.

Project Materials

  • Size 15 silver lined rosaline Toho seed beads (15TR31)
  • Size 15 silver lined tanzanite Toho seed beads (15TR39)
  • Size 15 permanent finish galvanised aluminium Toho seed beads (15TRPF558)
  • Plated ring base (Choose here)
  • Nymo beading thread (TC128)

You will also need:


Step 1. Set up your loom with 9 warp threads as per the instructions included in your loom. We will be placing the bridge on the loom in the 10th hole along. This will make a loomed section that will fit entirely around the ring base, covering the gap where it is adjustable (Image A). If you want to make a strip of loom that will fit up to the gap, but not cover it, then place your bridge in the 8th holes (Image B). You will need to glue this in place. Here are the examples of the two types of ring design

If you are using a Little Ricky Beading Loom is should look like the following photo. To set up the warp threads, secure your thread to one of the pegs and take the thread over the first metal bar then over and under the other bar. Go over and under the first bar again. Repeat this until you have 8 gaps for your beads to sit between 9 warp threads. Leave a length of thread and secure it to a new peg, inserting the peg on one side of the loom.

Step 2. Take an armspan of thread and add a needle. Secure the other end of the new thread to a peg and insert it into the bottom of your loom where you will start adding beads. This is your weft thread. Begin your first row by picking up 8 x size 15 beads in your chosen colour. I started with the rosaline pink. Pass the needle (from right to left) under the warp threads. Use your finger to raise the beads so that they sit inside the warp threads in the gaps. Raise the beads and pass your needle through them again (from left to right) over the warp threads, securing them in place. Repeat this again with your next row, I chose 8 x tanzanite purple beads.

Step 3. Continue to weave back and forth, under and then over the warp threads adding a line of beads. I chose a simple striped pattern.

Step 4. Once you’ve finished your loomed piece and have added as many rows as you can, use your thumb and forefinger to push the beads down to the bottom of the loom and fill in the last small gaps between the beads and the metal bars of the loom. Remove the piece from the loom. Lay the piece on a flat surface and run your fingers across it from the middle going outwards to slightly move the rows of beads and fill the gaps where the bars were.

If the gaps are difficult to fill and you think you will end up with spaces in your rows of beads, follow the quick steps below to hide the small loops of thread at the ends. If you have managed to hide the loops, you can miss out the additional step and carry on with step 5.


How to hide the loops of thread – Take one of your long threads near the loops and thread so you are exiting the top row (shown here on the left side). Thread through the first loop of thread above the beads and thread through the 2nd bead on the 2nd row down to drag the thread downwards. Thread through the next loop and then thread through the next bead on the 2nd row to bring it downwards. Repeat until all the loops have been pulled down. These can be hidden on the inside of your ring, so you won’t need to see them!


Step 5. Once you are happy with your loomed piece, try wrapping it around your ring base. Check whether it is long enough to reach around the ring. If it is a little short, you can add a row of beads by sewing in and out of one end of the loom, adding a bead at a time to the end. If it is too long, try widening your ring slightly.

Step 6. Next, sew your loomed piece around your ring by threading in and out of each side until you are confident the ends are secured together. Do this while holding the beads on your ring base.

This is a nice neat way to attach your beads to your ring base. If it is tight enough, you shouldn’t need to add any glue to hold it in place. This also means you may be able to slide the beads on and off of the ring to swap between different loom patterns when you want a different look!

Want to keep your ring a bit more flexible? Try making a shorter length of loomed beads and glue this in place like my example below!

Graduated Bicone Necklace

This super simple, glam design is definitely a firm favourite here at BD! The Graduated Bicone Necklace is perfect for special occasions or adding a bit of sparkle and colour to your everyday outfits. Choose your favourite bicone pack, some matching seed beads and a clasp and make your own unique necklace.

Follow our video tutorial and print out your FREE project sheet to start making yours!

Get your hands on everything you need and choose from 8 shimmering bicone mixes using the links below.

For one necklace, you will need:

1 x Bicone 4mm, 6mm, 8mm mixed pack ( SEE ALL HERE )

1 x Size 11 seed beads 10g ( CLICK HERE )

1 x Toggle clasp / lobster clasp + jump ring ( CLICK HERE )

1 x Beading Thread ( CLICK HERE )

1 x Beading Needle ( CLICK HERE )


Share your finished necklace with us on Facebook and any other designs you’ve made using these brilliant bicone packs – we’d love to see what you make!


Lola Bow by Poppy Byford

Follow Poppy’s tutorial below and make your own beautiful beaded bow!

Project Materials

  • Beading foundation
  • Size 11 seed beads
  • Size 8 seed beads
  • 2mm fire polish beads
  • Square crystal/cabochon
  • Soutache cord
  • Glue
  • Beading thread
  • Beading needle

1. Firstly you will need to print or draw a bow template and cut it to shape depending on how large you want it to be, then using dress pins secure it onto your foundation fabric and cut around.


2. After removing the pin you will be left with your bow shape, I advice using a pencil draw in any details of the designs this will give you a good guide for when adding the beads.

3. Once you’re happy with your shape you will need some glue and your chosen cabochon. Dap the back of the cabochon with your glue and hold firmly on the fabric. Leave it to dry before continuing. You may need more glue if you’re using a crystal with a pointed back. You can also cut a hole out of your felt to slot it into before gluing if you feel you may struggle to glue it in place. You can then add more felt on the back of the bow to cover up the pointed back of the crystal.

4. Now we want to make a neat edge around the cabochon to finish it off nicely, I have chosen to stick with black but you can use any colour you wish.


5. Using nymo thread which I ran through thread heaven (making it smooth to run through the fabric) and knotting the end, I start by passing through from the back and picking up 1 size 11 seed bead and passing back through slightly above where you originally came from.

6. You will see the seed bead sits nicely on its side but may not feel secure, that’s okay as we will now reinforce it. Go back through your first position to the front again, but this instead of picking up a bead you go back through the one you picked up last time. This puts you in the correct position to add more but also secures your very first bead.

7. Now you need to pick up 2 seed beads and do exactly the same as before. You will need to go back through your fabric leaving enough room for the beads to sit nicely, to do this you will need to estimate the width of 2 beads.



8. Then you need to go back through your first point of entry and go through all 3 beads, by doing this you are running a trail through them all which will give you a nice neat shape. Adding 2 beads again, doing exactly the same but instead of coming back through your first entry point you will come back through one bead behind your 2 new beads added, this is what you will do every time after. It will feel like you are moving your beads out of line but its only temporary.



9. Keep adding 2 beads at a time going back through the one previous bead until you have gone the whole way round. You may find you can only fit 1 bead at the end, that’s fine it’s the same principle as 2 or even 3 always go back through the previous bead. Once you have gone the whole way round, I like to make sure the beads are sitting nicely and are secure, so I pass my needle back through all the beads keeping a nice tension, once happy go through to the back, finish and cut excess thread away.


10. Now moving on to one edge of the bow, using nymo again and doing the same technique as before bead your way round. I have chosen to use seed beads size 8 to add depth. If you want to make more progress quicker you can pick up more than 2 seed beads at a time but don’t recommend more than 3 or 4. I personally use 2 as it give more room to shape and makes the lines sharper and secure.( Remembering to pass back through them all once completed to make sure they are all sitting nicely together) Finish and cut excess.

Moving on to the edging, I have used Soutache cord, you can use as many layers are you desire. I have actually used 3, 2 in coral and one in black. However to demonstrate how this technique is done I’ve shown you using just one for the moment.

Place your Soutache cord around the edge of the bow using pins to hold it in its place.

11. Use nymo in the same colour as the cord or clear thread. From the back pull your thread through at on a slate so it goes through the foundation but also goes through the centre of the Soutache.


12. Then leaving a small gap from where you came out of, go back in the cord in the centre and passing through the foundation. Don’t pull tight just enough so the thread is laying flat against the cord, this will prevent any lumps and bumps, making the edge smooth.

Continue this the whole way round the first part of the bow.

13. I choose to do 3 layers, doing exactly the same as one but go through all 3 at the same time.

14. Tie the ends in by passing through the foundation and the ends until they are secure at the back. It doesn’t matter if the back looks messy as it will be covered at the end. Finish and cut excess.

15. Filling in the rest of the bow, using the same technique as before I’ve used size 11 seed beads in a different shade going round the inside edge.



16. Keep doing this until you have filled all the area. You can use any beads that take your fancy, I decided to use another colour size 11’s and then some 3mm fire polish next.

Keep adding beads you desire until you fill the space…

17. Once you have completed the first half repeat on the second half, to finish off I added some fire polish beads along the top and bottom of the cabochons, personally felt it finished it nicely. Then you have you completed bow ready for whatever you want to use it for. I fixed it to a headband and then used some suede material cut the bow shape out and glued it to the back to hide all the stitching. You could do the same or add a brooch, use on a necklace or bracelet. The beautiful of bead embroidery is that it has endless options.



I hope you have found my tutorial easy to follow and have enjoyed it too.

I would love to see your finished pieces feel free to send me an email!



Bead Chandeliers – 5 of our favourites

Bead Chandeliers are becoming one of the big interior design ideas of the season. Designs range from the colourful to the grand.
This is a selection of some of our favourites


1.Laura Whitewashed Bead 6-Light Chandelier, Palladium Gold

Bead 6-Light Chandelier, Palladium Gold by Laura Whitewashed

2.Image result for wood and beaded chandeliers

Wood and Bead Chandelier, from Shoplucketts

3.Natural Wooden Bead Chandelier with Distressed Metal Detail

Natural wooden bead chandelier with distressed metal detail from Cowshed Interiors

4.Stunning Wooden Bead Chandelier.In two sizes.This showstopping chandelier is made by hand from hundreds of wooden beads and looks beautiful lit or unlit. Perfect above a dining table, in an entrance hall or kitchen, or a decadent bedroom. It comes with the steel ceiling rose as shown and 3ft of flex and chain link that can be shortened to any length. Takes an E27 (large screw) bulb and is dimmable.Metal frame and wooden beads.Small: approx. 36cm dia x 46cm high Large: approx. 49cm dia x 59cm...

Anvers Wooden Bead Chandelier from Horsfall & Wright


Natural wood draped beads & rope accents pendant hanging chandelier from wholesale central

While there are several stunning designs you may like to make something unique. Here are some beads that we think may look great.

White wood round 12mm natural wood beads 16″ strand

Greywood round 12mm natural wood beads 16″ strand

Rosewood round 12mm natural wood beads 16″ strand

Click here to see the full range of  wooden beads


Sleep Easy with This Beaded Dream Catcher Project

A big thank you to Sally Writes, one of our lovely crafting friends. Sally shared this great post with us recently. If you have any projects or ideas you would like share. Please email Dan at dan@beadsdirect.co.uk.

Sleep Easy with This Beaded Dream Catcher Project


Beaded Dream capture

Beaded Dream capture

Native Americans believe that the night air is filled with both good and bad dreams that enter our minds when we go to bed. Therefore, they started the tradition of the dreamcatcher to block the route of bad dreams and increase the flow of good dreams. The main element of the dream catcher is the netted hoop. Good dreams know how to pass through the outer loops of the hoop design, while bad dreams get tangled and trapped within the hoop.

If you have a child that may be scared to sleep alone or is experiencing bad dreams, help soothe them by working together to create your own dream catcher. The legend will ease their minds and it’s a fun arts and crafts project to enjoy on a weekend indoors.

What you Need:

  • Embroidery hoop
  • Lace or other open fabric
  • Blunt needle
  • Yarn
  • Fabric Glue
  • Beads
  • Feathers
  • Any other embellishments such as glitter or star and moon shapes

Step One: Cut your lace to fit inside the embroidery hoop.

Step Two: Knot one end of the yarn and put it through the blunt needle. Stitch around the outside of the hoop and up through the bottom to attach the lace to your hoop. With each stitch add a few colourful beads to decorate your hoop.

Step Three: After the inside of the hoop is colourfully decorated, add other embellishments. Use nontoxic fabric glue to add your chosen embellishments in the centre. Star and moon shapes are nice to give the dreamcatcher a night theme. Dreamcatchers are also usually decorated with sacred items, so something that represents things your child loves would also be great to glue around the outsides of the hoop. This could be a soccer ball bead or a sticker of their favourite Disney character – whatever your child’s heart desires.

Step Four: Now it’s time to add the hanging feathers, of which the good dreams will use to glide down to enter your child’s sleeping mind. Cut a piece of yarn, about the size you want the dreamcatcher’s tail to be. Then tie a few colourful feathers to the end. String the yarn through the bottom of the hoop and add a couple more beads for decoration. Push the beads down towards the feather and cover the exposed feather tips to finish off your dreamcatcher.

Now that you have created your dream catcher, place it over or near your child’s bed. It will swing freely in the air and trap the bad dreams that plague him or her.

Crystal Shine Necklace by Lynda Pearce

Create a beautiful, crystal embellished necklace using shimmering glass crystal bicones and silver plated copper craft wire. Follow Lynda’s project below and make your own gorgeous wire necklace with crystal droplets around the V shape at the centre. This design is the perfect bridal design and can be made even more special by swapping your glass bicone beads for beautiful Swarovski bicones instead! Find your Swarovski bicones in Crystal AB here and choose your 4mm, 6mm and 8mm beads.

Project Materials

AB crystal bicones (4mm, 6mm, 8mm)

– BG1445 (x2), BG1457 (x1) , BG1469 (x1)

Silver plated copper wire (0.8) – W389

Silver plated copper wire (0.4) – W393

50mm silver ball end head pins – F0063

Antique silver toggle clasp – F0105

(You will also need round nose pliers & wire cutters)

Step 1) cut a 40cm length of the 0.8mm wire. Find the centre point and create a loop in the centre of the wire.

Step 2) measure a point 5cm away from the first loop on the working wire. Use your round nose pliers to make a loop at this point, curving the wire slightly between the two loops.

Step 3) measure a point 5cm away from the new loop you made and repeat the process from step 2. Repeat the process one more time so you have 4 loops in total.

Step 4) finish the end of the wire off with one final upward facing loop.

Step 5) repeat steps 2-4 on the other side of the wire. Your finished piece should look like this.

Step 6) cut a 2m length of 0.4mm wire and anchor the centre of the wire to the centre loop on your wire frame piece. You should have two working ends of equal length.

Step 7) add a 4mm crystal to one of the new wire ends. Position it above the curved wire on your frame, then wrap the working wire around the frame twice to lock it in place.

Step 8) add another 4mm crystal to the same wire, position it neatly next to the first one then wrap the wire twice again. Repeat this process until you have filled the whole curve with crystals.

Step 9) continue along the length of the wire frame until there are crystals all along the one edge. Repeat the process along the other side with your second working wire until the top edge of the frame is completely filled.

Step 10) cut another 2m length of 0.4mm wire and anchor it at the base of the centre loop as before. Add a crystal to one end of the new wire and position it on the underside of the curved wire. Wrap the working wire around the frame to anchor, using the point between the previously added crystals to position it. Repeat this process all along the curve again.

Step 11) continue adding crystals to the underside until the whole frame is full, then repeat the process on the second side.

Step 12) add two 4mm crystals, two 6mm crystals and two 8mm crystals to a ball ended head pin. Create 3 icicle droppers like this.

Step 13) create some smaller icicles by adding one crystal of each size to a pin. You will need 4 icicles this size.

Step 14) roll the tops of the headpins with your round nose pliers. Before closing the loops completely, attach the icicles to the loops on the crystallised wire frame. Ensure that the central icicle is a long one.

Step 15) Position the remaining icicles so that the sizes alternate as shown. The very end loops should have shorter droppers made using one 4mm, one 6mm then another 4mm crystal on to finish.

Step 16) to finish, add a length of chain to either side of the icicle piece. You can either use ready made chain or create a beaded chain using the remaining crystals and 0.8mm wire like the one shown. When you are happy with the length, add one part of the toggle clasp to each side and your necklace is complete!


Festival Tassel Earrings | Summer Jewellery

Make these trending earrings using super soft white thread, colourful satin cord and some shining gold findings! This design is so easy to personalise and adapt with more beads, different cords and your favourite metallic findings. Follow the project below and make your earrings, perfect for wearing this Summer!

Project Materials

Soft white thread

0.5mm Turquoise satin cord

0.5mm Electric satin cord

Gold plated ear drop frames

Gold plated earwires

Gold plated eyepins

4mm Capri Blue fire polish beads

Step 1.

Take one of your ear drop frames and open it at the top.

Step 2. 

Cut a piece of sturdy cardboard measuring approx. 4cm. From the reel of thread, wrap your white thread around this approx. 70 times. Pass the wire of your earring drop under the threads like in the image below.

Step 3. 

Leave a few inches of thread and cut your thread off your reel. Move this tail thread upwards and out of the way so it doesn’t get cut. Carefully slot one side of your scissors under the threads on one side. Cut them at the base while holding the top of the tassel near to the earring drop loop. Pull the earring upwards and take your tassel off the cardboard.

Step 4.

Take your long length of thread on your tassel and wrap this tightly around the top of the tassel, below the earring loop. Holding this in place, take a second piece of thread from within the tassel, and knot your wrapped thread to this. Knot a second time to secure. You can now trim this longer thread to match the rest.

Step 5.

Make a total of 8 tassels just like the first one.

Step 6.

Cut a length of dark blue cord measuring approx. 10″. Position your 8 tassels around your earring like in the image below and start wrapping your blue cord once around each tassel loosely.

Step 7.

Once you have wrapped once around all of your tassels, gently pull each gap together, starting from one side until your tassels are close together. This is what the back of your earring will look like.

Step 8.

Secure this cord to the back of your earring by knotting to the cord that passed around the last tassel. Bring the cord around the last tassel and knot it to the back. Before knotting the second side of the earring, spend some time to move the blue cord along again to tighten the wrapping. Then complete this section by knotting the other end. The images below show the back and front of the earring.


Step 9.

Repeat this process using a new length of turquoise cord. To start this, take a length of cord measuring 20″ (twice as long as with the dark blue cord). Fold it in half and knot to your first tassel like in the image below. Simply bring the folded end of cord under the tassel and thread the other ends through the loop on the end to secure to the tassel.

Step 10.

Continue wrapping around each tassel as you did before to add another layer of colourful cord.

Step 11. 

Once you have loosely wrapped all the way to the other side of the tassels, spend some time pulling your thread tighter around each tassel. Complete this and knot at the other side on the back of the earring. Knot a second time to secure and trim off the excess thread,

Step 12. 

Turn your earring over and look at how neat or how short you want your tassels to be. I chose to trim off 1cm to neaten my earring.

Step 13.

Take a fire polish bead, an eyepin and your earwire.

Step 14. 

Thread your bead onto the eyepin and bend the pin to a 90 degree angle above the bead. Trim off the excess pin leaving 1cm of wire. Next, turn a loop using your round nose pliers.

Step 15.

Finally, open one side of your eyepin and thread onto your tassel earring. Close the loop securely. Open the other loop on the eyepin and attach this to your earwire. Close the loop securely. Hold up your earring and twist the loops on your eyepin so that your earring hangs correctly.


Try personalising your earrings with little seed beads knotted onto your tassels or more layers of colourful cord!


Make a Beaded Pompom Keyring

We’re always looking for ways to make our everyday accessories match our outfits and jewellery. This cute pompom charm is perfect for attaching to your keys and your Summer purse! It’s so easy to make your own personalised keyring charms and pendants. Once you’ve mastered this fun project, why not make your own tiny pompoms and attach them to ear wires or a delicate charm bracelet?

Project Materials

  • Pink Cotton 6 Strand Mouline Thread 8 Metres
  • 8mm Czech Fire Polished Beads
  • 8mm Silver Plated Jump Rings
  • Cardboard for your pompom template/frame

Step 1.

Cut out 2 circles of cardboard measuring 1.5″ (3.5cm) across. Cut a 1cm slot in the side and cut a small circle in the centre of each.

Step 2.

Cut a 4″ piece of cord and position it around the small circle in the centre of one of your cardboard frames – like in the image below. Place the other circle of cardboard on top. You can hold these together with paper clips or bulldog clips if you want.


Step 3. 

Take your long 8metre length of cord and start wrapping this around your pompom frame.

Continue to wrap your cord around your frame until you have used all 8metres.


Step 4. 

Once you are finished wrapping, loosely knot your two short pieces of cord from inbetween your cardboard frames together.

Step 5. 

Take a pair of small and sharp scissors and cut around the edge of your circle frames. Then tightly pull your two cords you knotted together to secure your pompom. Knot these threads again tightly.

Step 6.

Finally, thread on your chosen beads and knot your thread to a jump ring or straight onto your keychain!

Trim off any tail threads and neaten any end threads. You can add a drop of glue or clear nail polish to your knots to secure further.


Spool Knitting with Beads

Try your hand at spool knitting with this simple tutorial using pretty pink cord and matching seed beads! This project is a great place to start for beginners to spool knitting.


Project Materials

  • 0.7mm Satin Cord
  • 9mm Cord Ends, Clasp and Extension Chain
  • Size 8 Round Seed Beads
  • Fevi Kwik Instant Glue
  • Beadalon 4 Prong Wire Knitter Tool
  • Crochet Hook

Watch this quick 3 minute video by Artistic Wire to learn how to get started with your Beadalon 4 Prong Wire Knitting Tool.

You’ll learn the basic technique and movement to make to start knitting before you start adding your beads.


Step 1.

Take your reel of cord and thread on approx. 100 seed beads. Don’t worry about threading them to the end of the cord, you will need them quite near to where you are working so that you can add a bead between each movement. You can add a knot to the very end of the cord if you are worried they will fall off the end.

Take your working end of the cord and thread it down through your knitting tool/spool.

Step 2.

Leave the end of the cord underneath the spool and wrap the section coming out of the top around the 4 prongs like in the image below.

Step 3.

Take the working thread on the right hand side (in the image above) and wrap it around the outside of the prong below it, above the thread already around this prong (see image below).

Step 4.

Take your crochet hook and lift this lower thread on this prong, up and over the prong towards the inside of the spool and let it go.


Step 5.

Continue this technique, taking your working thread around the next prong shown above next to my thumb, and lift the thread below it up and over with your crochet hook.

Take a look at the video above to see the technique repeated all the way around the spool.

Make sure, after every movement, you pull the cord coming out the bottom of the spool, this will keep your work tighter and more even. You can add a weight to the cord if you would like.

Step 6.

Continue knitting around the spool 3 or 4 times. This knitted section will fit inside your cord end and be hidden.

Start adding beads inbetween each movement. As you bring your thread around to the next prong, slide a seed bead up into the gap between the prongs and continue to finish the step.

Step 7.

Continue adding a bead inbetween each prong. You will start to see your work forming down the centre of the spool and you can continue until you have approx. 5 or 6″ of beaded cord.

Step 8.

Your knitted cord will be very flexible and soft and will be able to stretch and twist.

Once you are happy with the amount of knitted cord, finish your knitting with 3 or 4 rounds of the spool without adding beads. Pull this tightly at the end and make a couple of knots to secure the end of the thread.

Remove your knitting from your spool and check you are happy with your design. Cut off the rest of the reel of cord. Knot the other end of your knitting (the end you started with) to secure this further.

Step 9.

Trim down the end tails of thread leaving the end of the knitted cord to fit into your cord ends. Test that the end of the knitted section fits into your cord end before you glue it in.

Add a few drops of glue into the cord end and coat the inside of the metal around the edges so that the cords will stick to the cord end on all sides. Squash the end of the knitted cord into the cord end and move it around so that it sticks to the edges. You can add more glue inbetween the gaps of cord if you need to using the precise nozzle on your glue.

Repeat this on the other end of your bracelet!