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Droplet Window Earring Pattern

There are so many paths to take with your jewellery making when you discover the different beading bases available! The useful round bead frames I chose to use feature small threading holes and a channel around the edge to sew your chosen beads into. I used size 8 seed beads which fit into this channel really well, but you could try swapping these for more 3mm faceted round beads which are a similar size or use bicones instead. To add a splash of colour to the earring, I wanted to use the beautiful Majestic Blue crystals in my blue design and the bright Fuchsia pink crystals in my pink variation.

Follow my simple project below to learn how to make your earrings!

Project Materials

  • 16.5mm round bead frame x 2
  • Size 8 seed beads
  • Size 15 seed beads
  • 3mm Swarovski faceted round beads x 20
  • 4mm Swarovski faceted round beads x 18
  • Beading thread
  • Silver plated ear wires x 2

You will also need

  • Beading needle
  • Scissors
  • Flat/chain nose jewellery pliers

If you want to make larger earrings or maybe a larger matching pendant, you can choose from 2 sizes of the bead frames used in the pattern below, HERE.

 

Project Tutorial

Step 1. Take a metre of thread and add your beading needle to one end. Pick up 19 x size 8 seed beads and 19 x size 15 seed beads, alternating between the two. Thread through these a second time and pull the beads into a loop shape. Slot this around one of your silver bead frames and pull the thread tighter to secure it onto the frame. Knot the two ends of thread together to secure. Take your main thread and pass through a few beads. Sew down through one of the bead frame holes and up through the next. Thread through a few more beads and repeat, securing your ring of beads to the frame. Repeat this a total of 4 times to secure the circle of beads in different places.

Step 2. Exit through a size 8 seed bead. Pick up 1 x size 8 seed bead and thread through the next size 8 bead on your ring of beads, so it sits on top of the size 15. Repeat this until you have added 9 beads. When you have added these, you should be able to count upwards 5 x size 8 beads to reach the top bead on your circle. This is where you will attach your ear wire later in the project.

Step 3. Thread around the top of the circle of beads. Thread through the first size 8 bead you added in the last step. Pick up a 3mm faceted round bead and thread through the next seed bead from the last step. Repeat this until you have added 8 x 3mm beads here.

As you work, you will not be able to thread through your size 15 seed beads many times due to their small threading holes. To change directions as you travel from one side to the other (instead of threading around the circle again) use the holes around your silver frame to change directions. Further into your design, simply thread around the beads nearby to change directions. Make sure to try and follow the thread paths.

Step 4. Change directions so that you exit through a faceted round bead added in the last step. Pick up 2 x size 15 seed beads and thread through the next faceted round bead. Repeat this a total of 7 times to fill the gaps between the faceted rounds.

Step 5. Change direction by threading around the size 8 beads and faceted round beads here. Thread through the first of the 2 x size 15 seed beads added in the last step. Pick up 1 x size 15 and thread through the next size 15. Thread through the faceted round and the first size 15 seed bead. Add 1 x size 15 in the gap between the pairs of seed beads.

Step 6. Change direction by threading around the beads here. Thread through the single seed bead added in the last step and add 1 x 4mm faceted round bead between each of these.

Step 7. Change direction again. Thread through the first 4mm faceted round, pick up 1 x size 8 seed bead and thread through the next 4mm faceted round. Repeat this a total of 5 times.

Step 8. Change direction. and thread out of the the size 8 seed bead added in the last step. Pick up 1 x size 15, 1 x size 8, 1 x size 15 and thread through the next size 8 seed bead from the last step. Repeat this a total of 4 times.

Step 9. Change direction. Thread out of the size 8 as shown in the image above. Pick up 1 x size 15, 1 x 4mm faceted round, 1 x size 15. Thread through the next size 8 seed bead. Repeat this twice more.

Step 10. Change direction again. Thread out of a 4mm faceted round. Pick up 1 x size 15, 1 x 3mm faceted round, 1 x size 15. Thread through the next 4mm faceted round at the bottom centre of the design. Pick up 1 x size 15, 1 x 3mm faceted round, 1 x size 15 and thread through the next 4mm faceted round. Thread around these beads nearby to change directions.

Pass through the beads you just added and exit through one side of the centre 4mm faceted round. Pick up 3 x size 15 seed beads and thread through this 4mm bead again to wrap the 3 beads around the bead.

Step 11. Thread through 2 of the 3 seed beads just added. Pick up 3 more size 15 seed beads and thread through this centre (2nd) seed bead again to make a point on the base of your design.

Step 12. Thread back up through your design, weaving through the beads following the thread path as best you can. Exit through the topmost size 8 seed bead.

Pick up 3 x size 15 seed beads and thread through the same size 8 seed bead at the top again to make a small loop at the top.

Step 13. Thread back down through your design, knotting along the way to secure the thread. If you struggle to thread through the size 15 seed beads around the frame from step 1, thread down through the frame and back up to miss out the size 15. Continue to thread around the design until you are confident your design won’t unravel. Do the same with any tail threads.

Finally, trim off excess threads and attach your ear wire to the top of the earring using your pliers to open and close the loop on the finding.

 

I hope you enjoyed making your earring! Why not try swapping your Swarovski beads for fire polished beads in your favourite colours? Remember, you can post pictures of your finished designs on our Facebook page or tag us on Instagram.

Holly x

Ocean Spiral Jewellery Set

This gorgeous jewellery set was designed by Penny Matthews and uses shining turquoise tone copper craft wire, memory wire and matching aqua tone seed beads to make accessories that are perfect for Summer! Follow our tutorial below to learn how to make Penny’s Ocean Spiral Jewellery Set.

Project Materials

  • Size 6 aqua seed beads
  • Size 8 silver seed beads
  • Silver plated 0.5mm copper craft wire
  • Aqua tone 0.5mm copper craft wire
  • Memory wire 22mm size rings
  • Silver lobster clasp
  • Silver plated jump rings
  • Silver plated earwires
  • Silver plated chain

You may also need

  • Memory wire pliers and cutters
  • Flat, round and cutter jewellery pliers

 

Project Tutorial

Step 1. To make your earrings – Cut a ring off of your memory wire ring coil. Using your round nose pliers, carefully loop each end of the memory wire ring inwards. Link these two loops together with a jump ring (see the main image of the earrings).

Step 2. Take a 20cm length of wire turquoise tone copper craft wire. Starting on one side of your memory wire ring, wrap a tight coil from one side to the other using your turquoise wire. Once you have wrapped approximately half of the entire ring, stop and start to wrap back on top of the coil.

Step 3. Thread on a size 6 aqua seed bead and wrap once more around the original coil. Continue to wrap on 5 seed beads as shown on the image of the earrings. To finish your wire, wrap it tightly a couple of times at the end. As long as you have wrapped your wire as tightly as you can, the coil should hold itself in place and won’t unravel.

Step 4. To finish you earring, attach an earwire to your jumpring. Repeat the process to make a second earring.

Step 1. To make your necklace – Cut 3 rings of memory wire as you did before. Take one of these rings and loop each end inwards as you did before. Put this to one side.

Take a second ring of memory wire and cut it in half. Loop each end of this half inwards and curve the ring more to make it resemble a smaller version of the original sized ring. Be careful not to bend the wire out of shape.

Take the third ring and cut this in half again. Instead of repeating what you did before, this time, loop each end outwards on each of these two halves.

Step 2. Take your first ring of wire and 20cm of turquoise wire. Wrap this in the same way as you did for your earring adding aqua seed beads.

Step 3. Take your smaller ring of memory wire and take a 20cm length of silver 0.5mm copper craft wire. Wrap this in the same way as you did before, using the size 8 silver seed beads instead.

Step 4. Link the small ring and the normal ring together with a jumpring on each side. This is the centre of the necklace.

Step 5. Take your two halves of memory wire with the loops turned outwards. Cover the wire with a coil of turquoise wire and wrap on 3 aqua seed beads.

Step 6. Link one of these to each side of your turquoise ring with the silver ring attached, using a jumpring.

Step 7. Decide how long you want your necklace to be. Cut two lengths of chain measuring that length and attach one to each side of the centre necklace using a jumpring. Attach a jumpring to the other ends of the chain and attach a lobster clasp to one of these to finish.

Designed by Penny Matthews.

 

Seed Bead Collar

This amazing beaded collar design is perfect for personalising to match your different outfits and for wearing to special occasions! Follow Pam Gipp‘s fab project and learn how to make yours below.

Project Materials

  • Size 8 white seed beads
  • Size 8 Ivory seed beads
  • Jump rings
  • Clasp
  • Crimp beads
  • S-Lon beading thread

Project Tutorial

First work out your size by measuring around the base of your neck then measure from there to the edge of your shoulder.

Step 1. Cut a length of thread measuring the length you just took to fit you. Thread on the main colour, white beads to the length required then add your clasp to both ends using a crimp bead and a jumpring (thread through a crimp, through a jumpring and back through the crimp bead. Squash the crimp to secure.)

Make sure the beads are not too tightly positioned together.

Step 2. Take a long length of thread and pass it through the first bead next to the fastener leaving about a foot of tail thread that will be woven in. Next pick up 2 white and 1 ivory until you have 48 white, ending with the white.

Step 3. Now add 1 ivory and 2 white, 3 times and bring it up to make a diamond by going through the next ivory on the previous row.

Step 4. Then pick up 2 white, 1 ivory, 2 white and go through the next ivory to complete another diamond. Continue this until you go through the last ivory in the row and then pick up two white and go through the next bead missing one.

Step 5. Continue to repeat these steps 5 times and then start missing 2 beads on the top row.

Step 6. Once you have reached the centre 5 beads on your collar, finish off your thread and weave in the ends.

Step 7. Repeat this process to make the second half of the collar and use a new piece of thread starting from the opposite end of the collar.

Connect a length of jump rings to make your extension chain on one side of your collar.

 

See the image below to see how one half of your collar should look.

This design is ideal for personalising to change it’s length and depth. Why not try making yours with smaller seed beads using a thin sewing thread?

Frosty Bead & Wire Tree

Tree of life jewellery, accessories and decorations have been a huge trend this year and we’ve seen them made in many different styles using beads, wire, soutache and lots of other media’s. Here’s my little project using beautiful navy blue copper craft wire and gorgeous Toho seed beads on each of the branches! Follow my tutorial and get all your materials below.

Project Materials

  • Dark blue coloured copper craft wire 0.5mm
  • Silver plated copper craft wire 0.5mm
  • Dark blue shiny size 8 seed beads
  • Light blue shiny size 8 seed beads

You will also need your round nose, flat nose, chain nose and wire cutting jewellery pliers.

 

Project Tutorial

Step 1. The first step is to make approximately 40 lengths of wire measuring about 29″ or 73cm each. You will most likely use all of wire, but try and leave a few lengths still on the spool so that you can add more branches if you want at the end.

Step 2. Take your wires and bend them at the middle and twist the two halves of wire about 4″ above the bend to make a loop. Continue to twist these together to make the trunk of the tree.

Step 3. Make this main part of your trunk about 3″ tall above the loop of wire. Next, you can start making the thicker branches that come out of the top of the trunk. Separate the trunk wires into 2 groups, one a little smaller (with less wires) than the other and break each of these into two to be able to twist them together.

Step 4. Continue to break this new branch into a few more branches of differing sizes. Twist a little on each one and next we are ready to start adding leaves.

Step 5. To make a small branch, twist two wires together and thread 5 beads onto one of these. Bend the wire back towards the other and twist the base of the beads together so they are held in place in a petal shape. Continue to wrap this wire back onto the other one in the pair. Repeat this as many times as you like to make a unique branch.

Step 6. Once you are happy with this branch, thread both wires through 2 beads, and bend one wire to the side. Thread 3 more beads onto the remaining wire and curl this around to make the last leaf. Wrap this wire back onto the main branch and once you are confident it is secure, you can trim off this wire and the excess wire sticking out of the top of the leaf (as shown in the image below).

Step 7. Continue to make small branches that ‘branch’ off of the main branches and each other. You can even do small leaves along the larger branches by separating one single wire and weaving it back to the trunk. Try making double leaves at the end of branches by using both of the 2 wires, twisting them back to the branch and then trimming them.

Step 8. Continue to do this around your tree, making slightly longer branches around the base so that they graduate up to the top of the tree.

Step 9. Once you are happy with the top of your tree, you can start making the roots to stand it on. To do this, cut the loop at the bottom of the tree at the halfway point. Twist half of these to one side so they don’t get in your way as you work. You can now make curls of wire using your round nose pliers and flat nose pliers. Take a group of 4 to 6 wires and twist them together like you did to create the branches. Turn a small loop at the end (shown in the image below).

Next, take your round nose pliers and hold the loop flat. Gently make small turning movements to bring the loop in on itself to make a coil. Continue to do this until you have a curl shape. This is sometimes easier to carry on with your fingers instead of your flat nose pliers.

Step 10. Make lots of these curls around the base of the tree to use up your wires. Leave a few single wires to make single curls that can be closer to the base of the trunk.

Step 11. Pull the curls outwards and push them flat against your work surface so that they hold the tree upright.

Once you are finished, your tree should stand up by itself!

Padded Christmas Tree Decoration

There’s so many different ways to use beads in your festive decorations! This cute, soft Christmas Tree decoration is the perfect afternoon project and is so fun to personalise to match your decor style. Start your project with everything you need below.

Project Materials

  • Christmas colours seed bead mix
  • Preciosa pressed glass flower beads
  • Green felt
  • White polyester stuffing/filling
  • Green beading thread
  • Beading needle

 

Project Tutorial

Step 1. Print out your Christmas tree template on a4 paper (print from pdf here) and cut out the shapes.

Step 2. Place both tree shapes on the green felt using as little of the fabric as possible so you can have felt left over for another project. Pin your paper trees in place and carefully cut them out.

Step 3. Take a length of green thread for sewing (however much you are comfortable sewing with) and thread on a needle.

Step 4. Place the two trees together and starting at the base of the tree, start sewing them together. I’ve chosen to use simple edge stitches around the hem but you could choose to use an invisible stitch or a neat running stitch instead. Secure your thread with a knot by making a loop on the edge and threading through the loop before pulling it tightly. Continue to stitch all the way around your tree shape, catching both felt trees in each stitch.

 

Step 5. Finish stitching approximately 5cm from where you started, leaving an open gap.

Step 6. Take some of your white wadding and take some time to fill your Christmas tree through the gap you’ve left. Use a pencil to push any wadding into corners you can’t reach. It’s up to you how much you use and how full your tree is.

Step 7. Once you’re happy with your tree, sew up the gap, adding a little more wadding into this small gap before you finish sewing, if you need to. Once you’re happy your tree is sewn up, tie a knot on the edge and thread into the tree, and up through the front of the felt. Trim this thread where it exits the front of the tree and your tail thread is hidden inside the design.

Step 8. Now it’s time to add your decorations! I’ve chosen a Christmas theme seed bead mix to make lines of draping fairy lights across the tree. To do this, take a new length of thread and secure it about 2cm from the top of the tree on one side. Thread on a selection of colourful seed beads and hold this up against the tree to see how many you need to make a nice draping shape. I added 14 beads and then sewed through the other side to secure it. Don’t pull too tightly, as you want the seed beads to hang slightly.

Step 9. From this side, thread on more seed beads (I used 21 beads) And choose a place on the opposite side to secure these fairy lights. Continue this process all the way down. On my tree, I made 5 drapes and used the following amounts of seed beads – 14 beads, 21 beads, 28 beads, 31 beads and 36 beads on the last drape.

Step 10. Once you’re happy with your design here, secure this thread in place where the final beads were attached. Knot and hide your tail threads.

Step 11. Next I chose to add little Preciosa pressed flower beads as little pops of colour and sparkle on the tree. Take a new length of thread and secure it to one side. Sew into the tree and exit through the front where you’d like your first bead to sit. Thread through a flower bead and add a seed bead. Thread back down through the flower bead and back into your tree. Pass the needle under the felt and up into the next nearest spot you’d like your next flower. Pull the thread to sit your seed bead firmly on top of your flower bead, securing it in place.

Step 12. Continue to place flower beads all over your tree in the gaps between your rows of seed beads. Once you are happy that you have added enough flower beads, tie off your thread on an edge and hide your tail threads.

Step 13. Finally, I added a star at the top and a loop to hang the decoration from. To make your star, thread 5 seed beads onto a length of thread, thread around the same 5 beads again to make a circle.

Step 14. Threading out of one seed bead, add a new seed bead in between each of the 5 around the circle.

Step 15. Next, exiting through one of the new seed beads, pick up 3 seed beads and thread through the next one of the seed beads that are sticking outwards.

Step 16. Continue around until you have added all 5 points to your star. Weave your thread into your star, knotting along the way and trim off the excess thread when you are happy it won’t unravel.

Step 17. Take a new length of thread and secure it to the side of your Christmas tree, almost at the top. Thread through the side and pass your thread out the front of the tree, where you will attach your star. Pass through the centre of your star, pick up a flower bead and a seed bead. Thread back down through the flower bead (missing the seed bead) and down through the star, back into the tree. Thread out of the very top point of the tree.

Step 18. Pick up about 20 seed beads and thread back down through the top of the tree to secure a loop on top of the tree. Thread around this loop a couple of times to secure it properly and then knot your excess thread to the felt again. Trim off the excess once you’ve hidden your thread.

You’ve now finished your tree! To take your design further, you can cover both sides with the same design. Another idea is to use all gold (or blue, red, silver – any colour you want!) seed beads, flower beads and thread to give your tree a different look!

I hope you enjoyed making your Christmas decoration x

Beaded Christmas Tree Centrepiece

We’re getting into the festive spirit this month and we’re all busy making some fun beady decorations and Christmas jewellery! These cute Christmas tree ornaments are so colourful and fun to make, they’re the perfect crafty project to get you in the Christmas mood.

Project Materials

  • Green tone rattail cord
  • Seed bead mix
  • Gold tone chain
  • Acrylic shaped beads
  • Red cord
  • Beading thread
  • Beading needle

You will also need

 

Project Tutorial

Step 1. Take one of your polystyrene cones and cover it in double sided sticky tape.

Step 2. Take one of your rattail multi colour packs and place all 4 colours next to each other. Starting at the bottom of the cone, take all 4 threads and start wrapping them around the base. Overlap the starting point of the threads as neatly as you can and continue wrapping upwards, all the way up the cone. Spend a little time making sure your threads are neat before you press them securely to the cone.

Step 3. Once you are happy your cone is covered all the way to the top, cut off any excess cord.

Step 4. Now it’s time to add your Christmas tree decorations! On one tree, we have threaded a selection of seed beads onto a length of beading thread. We used about 60cm of seed beads here. Keep your thread a bit longer so you can add some more beads if needed. Knot the beads onto the thread to they won’t come off of either end. Secure one end of the thread to the top of the tree. You can tuck it into the cords at the very top to hide the end or use a glue gun to secure it in place. We will add a star to the top of the tree, so you may want to glue all the pieces you want at the top at the same time. Wrap your seed beads around the cone and secure them at the bottom. You could glue your thread to the bottom of your cone or add a needle to your tail thread here and pass it through some of the green cord to hide it in your work.

On our other tree we chose to wrap gold chain around the cone in the same way and secured it with glue at several points and on either end. To finish this tree we took a length of red cord and knotted little lantern shape beads along the thread. You could swap these with small charms or add more colourful beads to look like fairy lights! Wrap this to your design in the same way as before.

Step 5. Finally glue a star bead to the top of the tree. You can do this using a cool glue gun that won’t melt the polystyrene cone or by carefully sewing through the bead and sewing into the green cords attached to the cone – *see the tip below.

*To sew on your star you would need to sew through your bead, add a small seed bead and sew back down through the star. Then sew into/under the rattail cord on your cone, knot and weave the thread until you are confident it won’t unravel and secure the tail thread into the design in the same way.

Step 6. To cover any loose threads at the base of your Christmas tree, try gluing a piece of card or decorative paper to the underside to hide them. 

 

You can find more inspiring Christmas designs HERE!

 

 

 

Swarovski Innovations – Fall/Winter 18/19

The latest Innovations from Swarovski Create Your Style encapsulate the bright, joyful colours that shine best in the sunlight and the muted, subtle hues that emerge from shadowed surroundings. Explore Swarovski’s four new themes that reflect these ideas in the form of Nostalgia (serene and minimal), Elegantia (retro and decadent), Funtasia (quirky and bright) and Urbania (raw and gritty).

This elegant theme from the Swarovski Innovations for Fall/Winter 2018/19 encapsulates our love of storytelling through fashion. ‘Nostalgia‘ has been created by lovers of Victorian style and fresh, clean tones. The theme features a minimal palette including the new Crystal Velvet Brown Pearl, Crystal Grey and ivory colour stones. Combine these with some classic tones such as Crystal Antique Pink and Vintage Rose for a romantic design.

Create statement pieces inspired by 1920’s eccentricity. This colourful theme shows off Swarovski’s new colour – Crystal Scarlet (See more below). There’s a retro feel to the ‘Elegantia‘ theme that plays out across Swarovski’s colour choices and shapes that can be combined onto simple accessories. Bright, fun tones match effortlessly with neutral vintage effects such as the new Crystal Velvet Brown pearls, Crystal Copper and Crystal Olivine beads. This sophisticated theme allows for highly embellished, textured creations and encourages wearers to decorate along hemlines, gloves, dress straps and other trims to frame simple dresses and add a splash of colour to an outfit.

The ‘Funtasia‘ theme is designed to show off a sense of positivity through fashion. The combination of primary colours and fun new shapes steers designers away from the seriousness of adulthood and brings them back to joyful, childish innocence. Combine these stunning beads and stones with more subtle tones such as Crystal Powder Yellow and Crystal Peony Pink. Make up your own quirky detailing with the brand new Fancy Eye Stones, and the fun Starbloom Fancy Stone. Combine these dazzling shapes with simple round flat backs and frame them with matching tones such as the latest Shimmer Effect beads!

The ‘Urbania‘ theme encapsulates our growing need to repair and re-use materials more in the future. The urban colours and textures reflect the city streets with a handful of rich green and golden tones added sparsely throughout designs. This streetwise theme combines metallics, iridescent pearls and sharp shapes, perfect for party-wear and city trip outfits. Get creative with dagger finishes and edgy shapes including the stunning Trilliant 3 hole sew on stone. Add a splash of colour to your Urbania style designs with the beautiful Crystal Royal Green and the effortlessly elegant Crystal Montana blue stones.

SHOP THE LATEST INNOVATIONS RANGE HERE >>

The new ‘Growing Crystal‘ druzy effect stones were designed by Iris Van Herpen to resemble a cross section of a geode. These glamorous crystals follow on from 2016’s ‘Kaputt’ pendants designed by Jean Paul Gaultier. The ideas for both designs stem from inner beauty. Van Herpen’s growing crystals emphasise the power of natural creation and the imperfections that lead to dazzling beauty. Each pendant has an amazing shine and can be paired with simple clear or jet black beads to frame them as a centre piece, or simply attached to a matching bail to hang at the centre of a necklace.

SEE ALL SWAROVSKI GROWING CRYSTAL PENDANTS >>

The new ‘Shimmer Effect‘ was inspired by Swarovski’s Aurora Borealis collection. The crystal’s light-refracting properties cast multiple shades of a single colour for eye catching combinations. These gorgeous Shimmer Effect crystals are available in elegant chaton sizes, classic square fancy stones and brilliantly colourful crystal bicones and faceted round beads. You can also find them in hotfix and non-hotfix crystal sizes, perfect for using to embellish accessories such as purses, scarves, gloves and stationery! You can explore more and find out how you can embellish your own accessories HERE.

SEE ALL SWAROVSKI SHIMMER EFFECT CRYSTALS HERE >>

Crystal Scarlet is one of the new sparkling colours that has just joined the Swarovski Fall/Winter 2018/19 colour palette. It has been described by Swarovski as an elegant shade of red. The stylish tone is available in a myriad of size and shape options including essential bicone beads, fancy stones and more, meaning the possibilities with this romantic tone are endless!

SEE ALL SWAROVSKI SCARLET CRYSTALS HERE >>

Shimmer Ring | Beaded Loom Jewellery

A gorgeous selection of metallic bracelet and ring bases have just arrived and we’re getting creative personalising our favourites! I chose to use a rose gold plated ring base and created a simple loomed piece to fit around the edge. I wanted my loomed beads to be as flat and neat as possible when they were secured to the ring, so size 15 seed beads were a great option. Using such tiny beads will mean you’ll need a size 10 or 12 beading needle and you’ll only be able to thread through each row two or three times.

Below I’ll show you how to make a full ring that will be sewn together to fit over your ring, and I’ll also show you how to make a loomed strip that can be glued on to keep your ring flexible and slightly adjustable in size.

Project Materials

  • Size 15 silver lined rosaline Toho seed beads (15TR31)
  • Size 15 silver lined tanzanite Toho seed beads (15TR39)
  • Size 15 permanent finish galvanised aluminium Toho seed beads (15TRPF558)
  • Plated ring base (Choose here)
  • Nymo beading thread (TC128)

You will also need:

Tutorial 

Step 1. Set up your loom with 9 warp threads as per the instructions included in your loom. We will be placing the bridge on the loom in the 10th hole along. This will make a loomed section that will fit entirely around the ring base, covering the gap where it is adjustable (Image A). If you want to make a strip of loom that will fit up to the gap, but not cover it, then place your bridge in the 8th holes (Image B). You will need to glue this in place. Here are the examples of the two types of ring design

If you are using a Little Ricky Beading Loom is should look like the following photo. To set up the warp threads, secure your thread to one of the pegs and take the thread over the first metal bar then over and under the other bar. Go over and under the first bar again. Repeat this until you have 8 gaps for your beads to sit between 9 warp threads. Leave a length of thread and secure it to a new peg, inserting the peg on one side of the loom.

Step 2. Take an armspan of thread and add a needle. Secure the other end of the new thread to a peg and insert it into the bottom of your loom where you will start adding beads. This is your weft thread. Begin your first row by picking up 8 x size 15 beads in your chosen colour. I started with the rosaline pink. Pass the needle (from right to left) under the warp threads. Use your finger to raise the beads so that they sit inside the warp threads in the gaps. Raise the beads and pass your needle through them again (from left to right) over the warp threads, securing them in place. Repeat this again with your next row, I chose 8 x tanzanite purple beads.

Step 3. Continue to weave back and forth, under and then over the warp threads adding a line of beads. I chose a simple striped pattern.

Step 4. Once you’ve finished your loomed piece and have added as many rows as you can, use your thumb and forefinger to push the beads down to the bottom of the loom and fill in the last small gaps between the beads and the metal bars of the loom. Remove the piece from the loom. Lay the piece on a flat surface and run your fingers across it from the middle going outwards to slightly move the rows of beads and fill the gaps where the bars were.

If the gaps are difficult to fill and you think you will end up with spaces in your rows of beads, follow the quick steps below to hide the small loops of thread at the ends. If you have managed to hide the loops, you can miss out the additional step and carry on with step 5.

 

How to hide the loops of thread – Take one of your long threads near the loops and thread so you are exiting the top row (shown here on the left side). Thread through the first loop of thread above the beads and thread through the 2nd bead on the 2nd row down to drag the thread downwards. Thread through the next loop and then thread through the next bead on the 2nd row to bring it downwards. Repeat until all the loops have been pulled down. These can be hidden on the inside of your ring, so you won’t need to see them!

 

Step 5. Once you are happy with your loomed piece, try wrapping it around your ring base. Check whether it is long enough to reach around the ring. If it is a little short, you can add a row of beads by sewing in and out of one end of the loom, adding a bead at a time to the end. If it is too long, try widening your ring slightly.

Step 6. Next, sew your loomed piece around your ring by threading in and out of each side until you are confident the ends are secured together. Do this while holding the beads on your ring base.

This is a nice neat way to attach your beads to your ring base. If it is tight enough, you shouldn’t need to add any glue to hold it in place. This also means you may be able to slide the beads on and off of the ring to swap between different loom patterns when you want a different look!

Want to keep your ring a bit more flexible? Try making a shorter length of loomed beads and glue this in place like my example below!

Graduated Bicone Necklace

This super simple, glam design is definitely a firm favourite here at BD! The Graduated Bicone Necklace is perfect for special occasions or adding a bit of sparkle and colour to your everyday outfits. Choose your favourite bicone pack, some matching seed beads and a clasp and make your own unique necklace.

Follow our video tutorial and print out your FREE project sheet to start making yours!

Get your hands on everything you need and choose from 8 shimmering bicone mixes using the links below.

For one necklace, you will need:

1 x Bicone 4mm, 6mm, 8mm mixed pack ( SEE ALL HERE )

1 x Size 11 seed beads 10g ( CLICK HERE )

1 x Toggle clasp / lobster clasp + jump ring ( CLICK HERE )

1 x Beading Thread ( CLICK HERE )

1 x Beading Needle ( CLICK HERE )

 

Share your finished necklace with us on Facebook and any other designs you’ve made using these brilliant bicone packs – we’d love to see what you make!

 

Lola Bow by Poppy Byford

Follow Poppy’s tutorial below and make your own beautiful beaded bow!

Project Materials

  • Beading foundation
  • Size 11 seed beads
  • Size 8 seed beads
  • 2mm fire polish beads
  • Square crystal/cabochon
  • Soutache cord
  • Glue
  • Beading thread
  • Beading needle

1. Firstly you will need to print or draw a bow template and cut it to shape depending on how large you want it to be, then using dress pins secure it onto your foundation fabric and cut around.

 

2. After removing the pin you will be left with your bow shape, I advice using a pencil draw in any details of the designs this will give you a good guide for when adding the beads.

3. Once you’re happy with your shape you will need some glue and your chosen cabochon. Dap the back of the cabochon with your glue and hold firmly on the fabric. Leave it to dry before continuing. You may need more glue if you’re using a crystal with a pointed back. You can also cut a hole out of your felt to slot it into before gluing if you feel you may struggle to glue it in place. You can then add more felt on the back of the bow to cover up the pointed back of the crystal.

4. Now we want to make a neat edge around the cabochon to finish it off nicely, I have chosen to stick with black but you can use any colour you wish.

 

5. Using nymo thread which I ran through thread heaven (making it smooth to run through the fabric) and knotting the end, I start by passing through from the back and picking up 1 size 11 seed bead and passing back through slightly above where you originally came from.

6. You will see the seed bead sits nicely on its side but may not feel secure, that’s okay as we will now reinforce it. Go back through your first position to the front again, but this instead of picking up a bead you go back through the one you picked up last time. This puts you in the correct position to add more but also secures your very first bead.

7. Now you need to pick up 2 seed beads and do exactly the same as before. You will need to go back through your fabric leaving enough room for the beads to sit nicely, to do this you will need to estimate the width of 2 beads.

 

 

8. Then you need to go back through your first point of entry and go through all 3 beads, by doing this you are running a trail through them all which will give you a nice neat shape. Adding 2 beads again, doing exactly the same but instead of coming back through your first entry point you will come back through one bead behind your 2 new beads added, this is what you will do every time after. It will feel like you are moving your beads out of line but its only temporary.

 

 

9. Keep adding 2 beads at a time going back through the one previous bead until you have gone the whole way round. You may find you can only fit 1 bead at the end, that’s fine it’s the same principle as 2 or even 3 always go back through the previous bead. Once you have gone the whole way round, I like to make sure the beads are sitting nicely and are secure, so I pass my needle back through all the beads keeping a nice tension, once happy go through to the back, finish and cut excess thread away.

 

10. Now moving on to one edge of the bow, using nymo again and doing the same technique as before bead your way round. I have chosen to use seed beads size 8 to add depth. If you want to make more progress quicker you can pick up more than 2 seed beads at a time but don’t recommend more than 3 or 4. I personally use 2 as it give more room to shape and makes the lines sharper and secure.( Remembering to pass back through them all once completed to make sure they are all sitting nicely together) Finish and cut excess.

Moving on to the edging, I have used Soutache cord, you can use as many layers are you desire. I have actually used 3, 2 in coral and one in black. However to demonstrate how this technique is done I’ve shown you using just one for the moment.

Place your Soutache cord around the edge of the bow using pins to hold it in its place.

11. Use nymo in the same colour as the cord or clear thread. From the back pull your thread through at on a slate so it goes through the foundation but also goes through the centre of the Soutache.

 

12. Then leaving a small gap from where you came out of, go back in the cord in the centre and passing through the foundation. Don’t pull tight just enough so the thread is laying flat against the cord, this will prevent any lumps and bumps, making the edge smooth.

Continue this the whole way round the first part of the bow.

13. I choose to do 3 layers, doing exactly the same as one but go through all 3 at the same time.

14. Tie the ends in by passing through the foundation and the ends until they are secure at the back. It doesn’t matter if the back looks messy as it will be covered at the end. Finish and cut excess.

15. Filling in the rest of the bow, using the same technique as before I’ve used size 11 seed beads in a different shade going round the inside edge.

 

 

16. Keep doing this until you have filled all the area. You can use any beads that take your fancy, I decided to use another colour size 11’s and then some 3mm fire polish next.

Keep adding beads you desire until you fill the space…

17. Once you have completed the first half repeat on the second half, to finish off I added some fire polish beads along the top and bottom of the cabochons, personally felt it finished it nicely. Then you have you completed bow ready for whatever you want to use it for. I fixed it to a headband and then used some suede material cut the bow shape out and glued it to the back to hide all the stitching. You could do the same or add a brooch, use on a necklace or bracelet. The beautiful of bead embroidery is that it has endless options.

 

 

I hope you have found my tutorial easy to follow and have enjoyed it too.

I would love to see your finished pieces feel free to send me an email!

Pvbyford1990@outlook.com