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Droplet Window Earring Pattern

There are so many paths to take with your jewellery making when you discover the different beading bases available! The useful round bead frames I chose to use feature small threading holes and a channel around the edge to sew your chosen beads into. I used size 8 seed beads which fit into this channel really well, but you could try swapping these for more 3mm faceted round beads which are a similar size or use bicones instead. To add a splash of colour to the earring, I wanted to use the beautiful Majestic Blue crystals in my blue design and the bright Fuchsia pink crystals in my pink variation.

Follow my simple project below to learn how to make your earrings!

Project Materials

  • 16.5mm round bead frame x 2
  • Size 8 seed beads
  • Size 15 seed beads
  • 3mm Swarovski faceted round beads x 20
  • 4mm Swarovski faceted round beads x 18
  • Beading thread
  • Silver plated ear wires x 2

You will also need

  • Beading needle
  • Scissors
  • Flat/chain nose jewellery pliers

If you want to make larger earrings or maybe a larger matching pendant, you can choose from 2 sizes of the bead frames used in the pattern below, HERE.

 

Project Tutorial

Step 1. Take a metre of thread and add your beading needle to one end. Pick up 19 x size 8 seed beads and 19 x size 15 seed beads, alternating between the two. Thread through these a second time and pull the beads into a loop shape. Slot this around one of your silver bead frames and pull the thread tighter to secure it onto the frame. Knot the two ends of thread together to secure. Take your main thread and pass through a few beads. Sew down through one of the bead frame holes and up through the next. Thread through a few more beads and repeat, securing your ring of beads to the frame. Repeat this a total of 4 times to secure the circle of beads in different places.

Step 2. Exit through a size 8 seed bead. Pick up 1 x size 8 seed bead and thread through the next size 8 bead on your ring of beads, so it sits on top of the size 15. Repeat this until you have added 9 beads. When you have added these, you should be able to count upwards 5 x size 8 beads to reach the top bead on your circle. This is where you will attach your ear wire later in the project.

Step 3. Thread around the top of the circle of beads. Thread through the first size 8 bead you added in the last step. Pick up a 3mm faceted round bead and thread through the next seed bead from the last step. Repeat this until you have added 8 x 3mm beads here.

As you work, you will not be able to thread through your size 15 seed beads many times due to their small threading holes. To change directions as you travel from one side to the other (instead of threading around the circle again) use the holes around your silver frame to change directions. Further into your design, simply thread around the beads nearby to change directions. Make sure to try and follow the thread paths.

Step 4. Change directions so that you exit through a faceted round bead added in the last step. Pick up 2 x size 15 seed beads and thread through the next faceted round bead. Repeat this a total of 7 times to fill the gaps between the faceted rounds.

Step 5. Change direction by threading around the size 8 beads and faceted round beads here. Thread through the first of the 2 x size 15 seed beads added in the last step. Pick up 1 x size 15 and thread through the next size 15. Thread through the faceted round and the first size 15 seed bead. Add 1 x size 15 in the gap between the pairs of seed beads.

Step 6. Change direction by threading around the beads here. Thread through the single seed bead added in the last step and add 1 x 4mm faceted round bead between each of these.

Step 7. Change direction again. Thread through the first 4mm faceted round, pick up 1 x size 8 seed bead and thread through the next 4mm faceted round. Repeat this a total of 5 times.

Step 8. Change direction. and thread out of the the size 8 seed bead added in the last step. Pick up 1 x size 15, 1 x size 8, 1 x size 15 and thread through the next size 8 seed bead from the last step. Repeat this a total of 4 times.

Step 9. Change direction. Thread out of the size 8 as shown in the image above. Pick up 1 x size 15, 1 x 4mm faceted round, 1 x size 15. Thread through the next size 8 seed bead. Repeat this twice more.

Step 10. Change direction again. Thread out of a 4mm faceted round. Pick up 1 x size 15, 1 x 3mm faceted round, 1 x size 15. Thread through the next 4mm faceted round at the bottom centre of the design. Pick up 1 x size 15, 1 x 3mm faceted round, 1 x size 15 and thread through the next 4mm faceted round. Thread around these beads nearby to change directions.

Pass through the beads you just added and exit through one side of the centre 4mm faceted round. Pick up 3 x size 15 seed beads and thread through this 4mm bead again to wrap the 3 beads around the bead.

Step 11. Thread through 2 of the 3 seed beads just added. Pick up 3 more size 15 seed beads and thread through this centre (2nd) seed bead again to make a point on the base of your design.

Step 12. Thread back up through your design, weaving through the beads following the thread path as best you can. Exit through the topmost size 8 seed bead.

Pick up 3 x size 15 seed beads and thread through the same size 8 seed bead at the top again to make a small loop at the top.

Step 13. Thread back down through your design, knotting along the way to secure the thread. If you struggle to thread through the size 15 seed beads around the frame from step 1, thread down through the frame and back up to miss out the size 15. Continue to thread around the design until you are confident your design won’t unravel. Do the same with any tail threads.

Finally, trim off excess threads and attach your ear wire to the top of the earring using your pliers to open and close the loop on the finding.

 

I hope you enjoyed making your earring! Why not try swapping your Swarovski beads for fire polished beads in your favourite colours? Remember, you can post pictures of your finished designs on our Facebook page or tag us on Instagram.

Holly x

Ocean Spiral Jewellery Set

This gorgeous jewellery set was designed by Penny Matthews and uses shining turquoise tone copper craft wire, memory wire and matching aqua tone seed beads to make accessories that are perfect for Summer! Follow our tutorial below to learn how to make Penny’s Ocean Spiral Jewellery Set.

Project Materials

  • Size 6 aqua seed beads
  • Size 8 silver seed beads
  • Silver plated 0.5mm copper craft wire
  • Aqua tone 0.5mm copper craft wire
  • Memory wire 22mm size rings
  • Silver lobster clasp
  • Silver plated jump rings
  • Silver plated earwires
  • Silver plated chain

You may also need

  • Memory wire pliers and cutters
  • Flat, round and cutter jewellery pliers

 

Project Tutorial

Step 1. To make your earrings – Cut a ring off of your memory wire ring coil. Using your round nose pliers, carefully loop each end of the memory wire ring inwards. Link these two loops together with a jump ring (see the main image of the earrings).

Step 2. Take a 20cm length of wire turquoise tone copper craft wire. Starting on one side of your memory wire ring, wrap a tight coil from one side to the other using your turquoise wire. Once you have wrapped approximately half of the entire ring, stop and start to wrap back on top of the coil.

Step 3. Thread on a size 6 aqua seed bead and wrap once more around the original coil. Continue to wrap on 5 seed beads as shown on the image of the earrings. To finish your wire, wrap it tightly a couple of times at the end. As long as you have wrapped your wire as tightly as you can, the coil should hold itself in place and won’t unravel.

Step 4. To finish you earring, attach an earwire to your jumpring. Repeat the process to make a second earring.

Step 1. To make your necklace – Cut 3 rings of memory wire as you did before. Take one of these rings and loop each end inwards as you did before. Put this to one side.

Take a second ring of memory wire and cut it in half. Loop each end of this half inwards and curve the ring more to make it resemble a smaller version of the original sized ring. Be careful not to bend the wire out of shape.

Take the third ring and cut this in half again. Instead of repeating what you did before, this time, loop each end outwards on each of these two halves.

Step 2. Take your first ring of wire and 20cm of turquoise wire. Wrap this in the same way as you did for your earring adding aqua seed beads.

Step 3. Take your smaller ring of memory wire and take a 20cm length of silver 0.5mm copper craft wire. Wrap this in the same way as you did before, using the size 8 silver seed beads instead.

Step 4. Link the small ring and the normal ring together with a jumpring on each side. This is the centre of the necklace.

Step 5. Take your two halves of memory wire with the loops turned outwards. Cover the wire with a coil of turquoise wire and wrap on 3 aqua seed beads.

Step 6. Link one of these to each side of your turquoise ring with the silver ring attached, using a jumpring.

Step 7. Decide how long you want your necklace to be. Cut two lengths of chain measuring that length and attach one to each side of the centre necklace using a jumpring. Attach a jumpring to the other ends of the chain and attach a lobster clasp to one of these to finish.

Designed by Penny Matthews.

 

Seed Bead Collar

This amazing beaded collar design is perfect for personalising to match your different outfits and for wearing to special occasions! Follow Pam Gipp‘s fab project and learn how to make yours below.

Project Materials

  • Size 8 white seed beads
  • Size 8 Ivory seed beads
  • Jump rings
  • Clasp
  • Crimp beads
  • S-Lon beading thread

Project Tutorial

First work out your size by measuring around the base of your neck then measure from there to the edge of your shoulder.

Step 1. Cut a length of thread measuring the length you just took to fit you. Thread on the main colour, white beads to the length required then add your clasp to both ends using a crimp bead and a jumpring (thread through a crimp, through a jumpring and back through the crimp bead. Squash the crimp to secure.)

Make sure the beads are not too tightly positioned together.

Step 2. Take a long length of thread and pass it through the first bead next to the fastener leaving about a foot of tail thread that will be woven in. Next pick up 2 white and 1 ivory until you have 48 white, ending with the white.

Step 3. Now add 1 ivory and 2 white, 3 times and bring it up to make a diamond by going through the next ivory on the previous row.

Step 4. Then pick up 2 white, 1 ivory, 2 white and go through the next ivory to complete another diamond. Continue this until you go through the last ivory in the row and then pick up two white and go through the next bead missing one.

Step 5. Continue to repeat these steps 5 times and then start missing 2 beads on the top row.

Step 6. Once you have reached the centre 5 beads on your collar, finish off your thread and weave in the ends.

Step 7. Repeat this process to make the second half of the collar and use a new piece of thread starting from the opposite end of the collar.

Connect a length of jump rings to make your extension chain on one side of your collar.

 

See the image below to see how one half of your collar should look.

This design is ideal for personalising to change it’s length and depth. Why not try making yours with smaller seed beads using a thin sewing thread?

Square Hex Double Spike Bracelet by Joy Wignall

Swarovski Spike Beads are here and we’re the first UK retailer to stock them! Choose from three shapes with a 1-hole and 2-hole option for limitless design possibilities! We couldn’t wait to share our love for them and we challenged designed team member, Joy Wignall to make something using our NEW Swarovski Spike beads.

Joy’s beautiful bronze-toned double bracelet features Swarovski golden shadow and metallic blue spike beads with pretty fire polished beads give the bracelet even more sparkle! We love all the shape and texture of this delicate design and think that the CzechMates triangle beads really compliment the shape of the spike beads.

See more of Joy’s designs.
See more Swarovski Spike bead designs

Project Materials

Swarovski Hexagonal Spike Beads Golden Shadow 7.5mm (AC2214)
Swarovski Hexagonal Spike Beads Metallic Blue 7.5mm (AC2216)
Swarovski Square Spike Beads Golden Shadow 5.5mm (AC2222)
Swarovski Square Spike Beads Metallic Blue (AC2224)
CzechMates Triangle Beads Jet Apollo 6mm (BG0550)
Czech Fire Polished Glass Round Vitex Crystal 4mm Pk100 (BG0010)
Toho Size 11 Seed Beads Metallic Iris Brown (11TR83)
Gold Plated Magnetic Ball Clasp (F0341)

Get your materials button

Project Tutorial

Section 1 part 1

The hexagonal spike bead and the Czechmate triangle bead both have two holes, I found it easier to lay out the beads before I used them to make sure I picked them up with the correct hole, each hex spike needs a triangle bead at each side of it.

Lay out your centre beads for the first bracelet section: triangle, blue hex, triangle, blue square, triangle, gold shadow hex, triangle, gold shadow square, triangle, blue hex, triangle, blue square, with seed beads added when needed.

Cut a double arm span of fireline thread and pick up three seed beads leaving approx. a 20cm tail go through hole in fastener, pick up two more seed beads and go through the first one added. Use a bead stopper if you have one or thread a bead on to the tail end to act as a stopper.

Pick up a fire polish bead then three seed beads five times. For the first pass through the beads I used the top hole on each hex spike and triangle.

Pick up a triangle, blue hex, triangle, three seed beads.
Blue square, three seed beads, triangle.
Golden shadow hex, triangle, three seed beads.
Golden shadow square, three seed beads, triangle.
Blue hex, triangle, three seed beads, blue square.

Then pick up three seed beads and one fire polish five times then three seed beads and the other end of the clasp.


Section 1 part 2
You are now ready to pass back through the bracelet, pick up two seed beads and go through the seed bead next to the fire polish bead then through the fire polish bead, pick up three seed beads then through the next fire polish until you have gone through fire polish number five.

Now pick up two seed beads and go through the seed bead next to the square. Then through the square and the first seed bead, pick up two seed beads then through the bottom hole of the triangle, bottom hole of the blue hex then the triangle. *Pick up 2 seed beads and go through the seed bead next to the square, through the square and the first seed bead. Then pick up two seed beads and through the bottom holes of the triangle, hex bead, triangle, repeat from * until exiting the last triangle on this section.

Pick up 3 seed beads and go through the fire polish bead five times, pass through the beads up to the clasp, through the clasp and back through the beads and the first fire polish.

Before you start the second section of the bracelet remove the thread stopper (or stopper bead), thread a needle on to the tail and work this through the section of the bracelet. Make a few half-hitch knots as you go and cut off when you are happy that your bracelet is secure.

Section 2 part 1

You are now ready to add the second section of the bracelet.

Lay out the beads ready, this time going: gold shadow square, triangle, gold shadow hex, triangle, blue square, triangle, blue hex, triangle, gold shadow square, triangle, gold shadow hex, triangle.

Pick up three seed beads and one fire polish bead.
Repeat four times, then three seed beads, square, three seed beads.
Then continue through the top hole of the triangle, top hole of gold shadow hex.
Go through the top hole of the triangle, add three seed beads.
Then add a blue square, three seed beads, triangle, blue hex.
Next add a triangle, three seed beads square, three seed beads,
triangle gold shadow hex, triangle
Add three seed beads and a fire polish four times (like before).

Now add three seed beads and pass through the fire polish of the existing bracelet, through the seed beads, around the clasp and back through the fire polish.

Section 2 part 2

You are now ready to complete this strand of the bracelet.

Pick up three seed beads and go through the fire polish bead four times, pick up three seed beads and pass through the bottom hole of the triangle, gold shadow hex, triangle, pick up two seed beads and go through the seed bead next to the square.

Then through the square and the first seed bead. Pick up two seed beads, then **through triangle,  hex, triangle.
Pick up two seed beads, go through seed bead next to the square, then through the square and first seed bead.
Pick up two seed beads, repeat from ** one more time until you have exited the last square and seed bead and picked up two seed beads, now go through the fire polish bead and pick up three seed beads four times and through the fire polish.

Now pass through the whole bracelet one more time to reinforce it, tying a couple of half hitch knots as you go.  When you are happy with the strength cut off the remaining thread.

You’re all done!

Thank you for sharing your beautiful bracelet design with us Joy! Let us know what you think and share your creations on our social media pages!

Shimmer Ring | Beaded Loom Jewellery

A gorgeous selection of metallic bracelet and ring bases have just arrived and we’re getting creative personalising our favourites! I chose to use a rose gold plated ring base and created a simple loomed piece to fit around the edge. I wanted my loomed beads to be as flat and neat as possible when they were secured to the ring, so size 15 seed beads were a great option. Using such tiny beads will mean you’ll need a size 10 or 12 beading needle and you’ll only be able to thread through each row two or three times.

Below I’ll show you how to make a full ring that will be sewn together to fit over your ring, and I’ll also show you how to make a loomed strip that can be glued on to keep your ring flexible and slightly adjustable in size.

Project Materials

  • Size 15 silver lined rosaline Toho seed beads (15TR31)
  • Size 15 silver lined tanzanite Toho seed beads (15TR39)
  • Size 15 permanent finish galvanised aluminium Toho seed beads (15TRPF558)
  • Plated ring base (Choose here)
  • Nymo beading thread (TC128)

You will also need:

Tutorial 

Step 1. Set up your loom with 9 warp threads as per the instructions included in your loom. We will be placing the bridge on the loom in the 10th hole along. This will make a loomed section that will fit entirely around the ring base, covering the gap where it is adjustable (Image A). If you want to make a strip of loom that will fit up to the gap, but not cover it, then place your bridge in the 8th holes (Image B). You will need to glue this in place. Here are the examples of the two types of ring design

If you are using a Little Ricky Beading Loom is should look like the following photo. To set up the warp threads, secure your thread to one of the pegs and take the thread over the first metal bar then over and under the other bar. Go over and under the first bar again. Repeat this until you have 8 gaps for your beads to sit between 9 warp threads. Leave a length of thread and secure it to a new peg, inserting the peg on one side of the loom.

Step 2. Take an armspan of thread and add a needle. Secure the other end of the new thread to a peg and insert it into the bottom of your loom where you will start adding beads. This is your weft thread. Begin your first row by picking up 8 x size 15 beads in your chosen colour. I started with the rosaline pink. Pass the needle (from right to left) under the warp threads. Use your finger to raise the beads so that they sit inside the warp threads in the gaps. Raise the beads and pass your needle through them again (from left to right) over the warp threads, securing them in place. Repeat this again with your next row, I chose 8 x tanzanite purple beads.

Step 3. Continue to weave back and forth, under and then over the warp threads adding a line of beads. I chose a simple striped pattern.

Step 4. Once you’ve finished your loomed piece and have added as many rows as you can, use your thumb and forefinger to push the beads down to the bottom of the loom and fill in the last small gaps between the beads and the metal bars of the loom. Remove the piece from the loom. Lay the piece on a flat surface and run your fingers across it from the middle going outwards to slightly move the rows of beads and fill the gaps where the bars were.

If the gaps are difficult to fill and you think you will end up with spaces in your rows of beads, follow the quick steps below to hide the small loops of thread at the ends. If you have managed to hide the loops, you can miss out the additional step and carry on with step 5.

 

How to hide the loops of thread – Take one of your long threads near the loops and thread so you are exiting the top row (shown here on the left side). Thread through the first loop of thread above the beads and thread through the 2nd bead on the 2nd row down to drag the thread downwards. Thread through the next loop and then thread through the next bead on the 2nd row to bring it downwards. Repeat until all the loops have been pulled down. These can be hidden on the inside of your ring, so you won’t need to see them!

 

Step 5. Once you are happy with your loomed piece, try wrapping it around your ring base. Check whether it is long enough to reach around the ring. If it is a little short, you can add a row of beads by sewing in and out of one end of the loom, adding a bead at a time to the end. If it is too long, try widening your ring slightly.

Step 6. Next, sew your loomed piece around your ring by threading in and out of each side until you are confident the ends are secured together. Do this while holding the beads on your ring base.

This is a nice neat way to attach your beads to your ring base. If it is tight enough, you shouldn’t need to add any glue to hold it in place. This also means you may be able to slide the beads on and off of the ring to swap between different loom patterns when you want a different look!

Want to keep your ring a bit more flexible? Try making a shorter length of loomed beads and glue this in place like my example below!

‘Bordeaux’ WrapIt Loom Bracelet

The NEW WrapIt Loom by Rainbow Loom is here and we’re the first official U.K. suppliers of this awesome new tool! Making trending wrap bracelets has never been easier or faster with the WrapIt Loom. Inside the tool you’ll find a handy bead tray, lots of Toho seed beads with patterns and easy-to-follow instructions to make four different bracelets. Now that we’ve made all four bracelets in the kit, we’re using our own choice of beads to make a design of our own! I’ve chosen to use a rich mix of purple and burgundy glass beads inspired by Pantone’s autumn colour ‘Tawny Port’, with our sparkling new vintage pink glass faceted round beads in Pantone’s ‘Ballet Slipper‘ to lighten the design.

Project Materials

WrapIt Loom
Czech Fire Polished Glass Round Beads Amethyst 6mm Pk100
Preciosa Twin Hole Tile Square 6mm Frosted Amethyst Pk20
Preciosa Czech Fire Polished Beads 3mm Vintage Pink Pk100
Nymo Beading Thread Brown
Swarovski Heart Button Amethyst Pk1
Purple Waxed Cotton Cord 1mm 6 Metres
2x Beading Needles

Tutorial

Set up your WrapIt loom following the box instructions. Cut a length of purple cord approx. 34 inches long. Thread your button and move it to the centre of your cord. Take either side of the cords and tie a knot close to the back of the button. Roughly measure the length of the bracelet to your wrist and tie two LOOSE knots where you want the beads to end and the clasp to fit. Make sure you don’t pull the knot tight at this point so that you can easily adapt the length later on if you need to!

Now place the button and knotted end into the top clamp of your loom to hold it in place. Pass the opposite end through the clamp and wrap it around the WrapIt Loom end. Pull back the sliding part and press it into the groove to give you a tight tension.

  

Take a 1.5m length of cord and find the middle. Hold the middle point over your purple cords at the top of the loom. This is where you will begin to add beads. Take the left side of the thread and weave over the outside purple cord and back up through the middle between the two purple cords. On the opposite side do the same, taking the right thread around and up through the middle.

To add your first bead, take 1 vintage pink faceted bead and thread it onto one of the threads. Take the other thread and pass it through the bead in the opposite direction so that each cord crosses through it. Pull both of the threads until the bead sits neatly within the purple cords. After you add your beads, you will always pass each side of the thread back around the outside of the purple cords and up through the middle to complete the row. (Bear in mind that it will take a couple of rows for your design to sit nicely).

  

Next, thread on two pink beads and as before, pass the other cord in the opposite direction through the beads. Pull the cords and encourage the beads to sit within the purple cords. Bring each thread around the outside and up through the middle.

For the next set of rows complete the following:
1x 6mm bead.
2x pink 3mm beads.
1x tile bead – Since this is a twin hole, you need to treat it as if it were two rows of beads. Make sure you still wrap the threads around the outside of the cords before going through the second hole!

Repeat this pattern from your first two pink beads until you run out of room to add more beads. When you reach the end of the loom, check the bracelet against your wrist to see how much further length you wish to add. At this point, you can amend the knot if necessary. Place the bracelet further up the loom, gently clamping around the beads. Return the opposite knot to its position in the other clamp, pull back on the clamp and secure it down into the groove to give you your tension.

Continue to add your beads and when you are almost at the end, finish the design with two rows of pink beads, followed by a single pink bead to draw the end to a point. When you have finished adding beads, knot the thread a few times onto around the thread of a row and trim away the tail end.

You might like to secure the knots further with a drop of glue. Your bracelet is now ready to wear!